Home › Cakes and Pastry › Cakes and Pastry: Biscuits
Cakes and Pastry: Biscuits
A Genoese cake cut into sandwiches with jam is served as Biscuits à la Vénitienne, coated with pink and white icing. As Puits d'amours it is cut in shapes an inch thick, the centres cut out, the space filled with whipped cream and preserve, and the whole glazed with sugar icing. These are also made with pound cake instead of Genoese.
They may be coated with chopped pistachios and almonds instead of the icing, and called Petits nids aux confitures. Made in sponge cake with little handles of citron they are called Petites corbeilles à la Lucullus.
Any cake cut in small shapes and glazed with chocolate is served as Chocolat glacé. Sponge biscuits glazed with chocolate are called Biscuits glacés au chocolat. Served with custard they are Biscuits à la crème.
Biscuit de Savoie is Savoy or sponge cake.
ENTREMETS.
As Gâteau à la Duchesse it is cut in slices, spread with preserve and put together again; decorated with icing. For Gâteau à la St. Honoré it is soaked in wine, covered with whipped and flavoured cream, and surrounded with balls of meringue. For Gâteau à la Parisienne the centre is cut out and filled with a purée of fruit; it is covered with coffee icing, and decorated with dried cherries and whipped cream.
Gâteau aux vins, or au cognac, is a tipsy cake.
Petits pains à la Parisienne are sandwiches of finger biscuits with preserve, masked with alternate lines of meringue mixture and preserve.
Petits gâteaux aux amandes are small shapes of pastry with chopped almonds strewn on the top; they are served with whipped cream or preserve in the centre of the dish. au chocolat are little chocolate cakes. They may be served with cream, or with a chocolate custard. à la Reine-small shapes of a paste of pounded almonds, sugar and whites of eggs; glazed with sugar icing. à la Victoria little cakes of flour, butter, pounded almonds, maraschino, etc., spread with orange marmalade, and glazed with yellow icing.
Madeleines are little cakes of a batter of flour, butter, eggs, brandy, etc.
Darioles a batter of flour, sugar, eggs, cream, pounded almonds, etc., baked in dariole moulds lined with paste, with candied orange flowers on the top. Flavoured with vanilla or coffee, they are called à la vanille, or au café.
Darioles à la Duchesse are Duchess cakes made of a batter with citron, angelica, dried cherries, etc.; glazed with white sugar.
Ballettes dorées are little cakes of pounded almonds with breadcrumbs, etc., and apricot jam.
Biscuits à l'Italienne are fancy shapes of a light paste with chopped almonds, spread with jam, and put together in pairs. They are served in a crown with whipped cream in the centre. aux pêches are round-topped biscuits spread with jam and put together in pairs in the shape of peaches; coated with white icing and a little red colouring. aux abricots are made in the same way, but of a smaller size. Apricot jam should be used, and yellow icing.
Gâteau aux fraises, etc., is composed of layers of light cake and of mashed strawberries or other ripe fruit, covered with cream. It can be made with slices of bread, instead of cake, soaked in a syrup of the fruit. de fruits à l'Italienne-a light cake soaked with a liqueur or fruit syrup, with a compote of fruit in the centre, decorated with fruit and whipped cream. feuilleté is puff paste cut in shapes. de mille feuilles-a pile of thin round pieces of puff pastry, spread alternately with apricot ENTREMETS. marmalade, orange marmalade and currant jelly; masked with apricot marmalade, and garnished with dried cherries. Garnished with angelica and a piping of whipped cream, and with stewed fruit in the centre, it is called Puit de fruits aux blanches couronnes.
Gâteau de Nantes a pile of rings of puff pastry, with an almond paste with chocolate in the centre, decorated with icing.
Gâteaux à la Condé-thin oblong or fancy shapes of puff paste, the surface covered with chopped almonds, sugar, etc. This is sometimes called Pâtisserie d'amandes à la Condé. à la crème-pastry of cream, flour and butter, in fancy shapes.
This page is not a set of recipes. It is a list of the names an English kitchen could put on a menu card, each attached to one sentence saying what the dish was. The cake underneath barely changes; the name on the card does.
- Biscuit means cake hereBiscuit de Savoie is glossed on the page as Savoy or sponge cake, and biscuits glacés au chocolat are sponge fingers under chocolate. Nothing on this page is a cracker or an American soda biscuit. Read biscuit as a light baked sponge and the whole list opens up.
- Genoese is génoiseThe Genoese cake these all start from is the whole-egg foam sponge still used as the base of layer cakes: eggs and sugar warmed and whisked to a ribbon, flour and melted butter folded in. It is firm enough to cut into shapes and to take syrup without collapsing, which is why it is the workhorse of the page.
- Two famous names have movedHere Puits d’amours are rings of cake an inch thick, hollowed and filled with cream and preserve; a pâtissier today makes them from puff pastry with a caramelised top. Gâteau à la St. Honoré has moved further: on this page it is sponge soaked in wine with meringue balls round it, where the name now means a puff pastry base ringed with caramelled choux buns.
- Mille-feuille with jamThe pile of thin puff rounds here is spread with apricot marmalade, orange marmalade and currant jelly. Pastry cream, which is what a mille-feuille carries now, is not mentioned. Jam sets firmer, holds the layers apart, and keeps, which matters for something assembled hours before a dinner.
- Tipsy cakeGâteau aux vins, or au cognac, is glossed as a tipsy cake: sponge soaked in wine or spirit until saturated. The soaking is heavy rather than a brushing, and nothing is cooked off it afterwards.
- No quantities and no ovenNot one line gives a weight, a time or a heat, because the book is not teaching anyone to bake. To make Petits gâteaux aux amandes you need a pastry recipe from somewhere else. What this page supplies is the shape, the finish and the name.
The page shows one cake renamed a dozen times. The same Genoese becomes Biscuits à la Vénitienne under pink and white icing, Puits d’amours when hollowed out, Petits nids aux confitures when rolled in chopped pistachio and almond, and Petites corbeilles à la Lucullus when a handle of citron is stuck on it. Nests, baskets and wells, and the difference between them is decoration. That is what the book was for. An English household giving a formal dinner wrote its menu in French, and needed to know which French words it was entitled to use for the sweets it already knew how to make.