Boiled Onions (Pour boiling water over medium)

A plain method that still works, with two details worth noting: the scalding step and the uncovered pan.

• The scaldA brief pour of boiling water over whole unpeeled onions softens the papery skin so it slips off. The tear-inducing compounds form when the onion's cells are cut, so most of the benefit is simply that there is less cutting and trimming to do. A short dip is enough; leave them longer and the outer layer begins to cook and goes slippery to handle.
• Why no lidThe recipe is explicit about leaving the cover off. Cooking onions uncovered is generally said to let volatile sulphur compounds escape rather than condensing back into the pot, and so to keep the flavour milder; covered, they are reckoned to taste stronger.
• "Medium sized"Around 2 to 2 1/2 inches across, roughly 5 to 8 oz each. Yellow or white cooking onions both suit; pick them all one size so they finish together, and trim the root end flat without cutting into it so they hold their shape.
• TimingThe recipe says only "till tender"; whole medium onions will generally want 20 to 40 minutes at a gentle boil. Test with a thin skewer at the centre rather than the outside, which softens well ahead of the core.
• Salting the waterAbout 1 teaspoon salt per quart. Onions absorb little of it, so season again after draining as the recipe directs.
• Drain thoroughlyLet them sit in the colander a minute or two, or return them to the dry hot pan off the heat, before adding butter. Otherwise the butter slides off into a watery pool on the dish.
• YieldFigure two medium onions per person as a vegetable side; 8 onions and 2 to 3 tablespoons butter serves four.