Fried Apples

Two lines is all this needs, but the result depends almost entirely on the apple and the pan temperature. Cooked too fast, the dice scorch outside and stay raw at the centre.

• Which apples"Cooking apples" means a tart variety meant for the pan rather than the hand. Northern Spy and Jonathan are period choices; Granny Smith or Braeburn will do. Note that "mealy" points to a dry, crumbling softness, so an apple that breaks down somewhat is closer to the mark than one that stays crisp.
• Quantity"Several" is unhelpfully vague. Reckon one medium apple per person as a side dish, or four apples with about 2 tablespoons of bacon fat in a 10-inch skillet.
• Bacon fatRendered bacon drippings, saved from breakfast, were a standing kitchen fat in this period. Refrigerated drippings keep for weeks; if you have none, cook a few slices of bacon and use what comes out. Butter works but browns faster and gives an entirely different dish.
• Slowly means slowlyMedium-low heat, 15 to 20 minutes, with the pan covered for the first half so the dice steam soft, then uncovered to drive off moisture and let the edges caramelise. Stir seldom; frequent turning breaks the pieces.
• Dice sizeHalf-inch cubes cook evenly in that time. Larger pieces stay firm at the centre; smaller ones lose their edges and go to mush.
• SeasoningThe recipe calls for nothing beyond apples and fat. Salt and pepper keep it on the savoury side; a pinch of sugar or cinnamon pushes it toward dessert.
• ServingThis belongs beside pork chops, sausage, ham or a plate of eggs, and it was often part of breakfast. Serve it straight from the pan; it dulls as it cools.