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Potato Fondant, Cooked
1/2 cup prepared potato 2 cups sugar 2/3 cup milk With 1/2 cup cooked potato, pressed through a fine sieve, prepared as for uncooked fondant, very thoroughly mix 2 cups sugar and thin with 2/3 cup milk. The "fine sieve," be it noted, plays a conspicuous and important part in making of candy from vegetables. Moreover, it should be borne in mind that no vegetable particle will either soften in or cook up into syrup. While cooking, vegetable particles are just as individual as though they were in separate vessels, consequently, they must be kept circulating as uniformly as is possible through syrup in order to prevent accumulation of masses of vegetable matter of sufficient bulk and weight to sink to bottom of sauce pan and cause mixture to burn. Moreover, should mixture escape burning, it would develop gluey spots that would make the finished product lacking in smoothness, that is the idea of the candy-cook. Place mixture on an asbestos mat over fire and cook until thick--to sticking point. Pour mass on cold damp marble and "cut in" like plain fondant. Knead small quantities at a time until whole batch is smooth. Pack in tins lined with waxed paper. Fondant can be used without additional sugar and does not stick to hands. It is particularly useful as covering.
A cooked sugar fondant stretched with sieved potato, which supplies moisture and body in place of some of the syrup. The hinge is the sieve: any lump of potato that survives it will scorch on the pan bottom or leave a gummy streak in the finished candy.
- Sieve, then sieve againPress the cooked potato through the finest sieve you own, and press the puree a second time if it shows any texture at all. As the original explains, potato solids never dissolve into syrup; they only circulate through it, so a lump stays a lump right through to the finished sweet.
- Which potatoUse a dry, mealy baking potato, boiled or baked and cooled, with no butter, salt, milk or seasoning added. About one medium potato yields the half cup called for. Waxy or new potatoes give a sticky, slightly gluey fondant.
- The asbestos matAn asbestos mat was a common stove-top diffuser in kitchens of this period and should not be used now. A flame tamer, a heat-diffuser disc, or simply a heavy-bottomed pan over moderate heat does the same job.
- "To sticking point"This most likely corresponds to the soft-ball stage, around 238F on a candy thermometer, or a drop that flattens into a soft ball in cold water; the original gives no temperature. Potato adds unmeasured water, so time is no guide here; go by temperature.
- Stir the whole timeBecause the potato solids will settle and burn, this mixture cannot be left alone the way a plain sugar syrup can. Keep it moving with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula, scraping the bottom, from the moment it comes to the boil.
- Cooling before working itPour onto a damp marble slab, a chilled sheet pan, or a silicone mat and let it fall to about 110F -- warm but comfortable to touch -- before beating. Working it while hot gives a coarse, grainy crystal.
- Yield and keepingTwo cups of sugar plus the potato makes roughly a pound of fondant, enough to cover a batch of small centres or to be rolled and cut into squares. Packed in waxed paper in a tin it should keep a week or two; it dries out if left uncovered.
- How it is meant to be usedThe closing lines point to its main use: the original recommends it particularly as a covering, and notes that it can be used without additional sugar and does not stick to the hands. Warm small amounts gently over hot water to a dipping consistency.