Savory Eggplant

A plain braise of eggplant, onion and sweet pepper in a covered pan. The whole thing hinges on keeping the lid on so the vegetables steam in their own liquid rather than frying dry.

• Size the eggplantThe recipe just says "1 eggplant" and gives no weight; a medium globe eggplant is the sensible reading. If yours is much larger, the pan will be crowded and you may want a little more salt.
• The pepper"1 pepper" is almost certainly a green bell pepper, seeded and diced, rather than a chili.
• ShorteningTwo tablespoons of vegetable shortening or lard. Butter or olive oil substitute directly and improve the flavour; use the same volume.
• Peeling and saltingThe recipe says nothing about peeling, so either way is defensible. Young eggplant needs no salting to draw bitterness, but a large seedy one benefits from 20 minutes salted in a colander, then a rinse and pat dry — in which case cut the 1/2 teaspoon salt in the pot.
• Keep the lid tightThe 1/4 cup water is all the liquid there is. A heavy pan with a well-fitting lid over low heat lets the eggplant collapse into its own juices; a loose lid will leave you scorching the bottom before the half hour is out.
• Thirty minutes is for softness, not crispnessThe eggplant will be fully slumped and jammy at that point, which is the intended result. Check at 20 minutes if you want the pepper to keep some bite, and uncover for the last few minutes if the mixture is watery.
• ServingSix servings as a side dish, not a main. It reheats well and is better the next day; a little black pepper, garlic or a spoonful of tomato at the start are all in keeping.