Vienna Tarts

A three-ingredient cheese pastry, closely related to the cream-cheese doughs used for rugelach and kolache. The dough is forgiving, but it must be cold when it goes into a hot oven.

• Quick ovenRead this as roughly 400-425F, the range usually given for a quick oven; 450F and above belongs to a hot oven. Thin cheese pastry of this size bakes in about 10 to 14 minutes; pull it when the edges are set and lightly browned.
• Which cottage cheeseThe recipe assumes a dry-curd or farmer-style cheese. Modern creamed cottage cheese carries far more liquid, so drain it in a sieve or press it in a cloth, and sieve or mash it smooth before mixing, or the pastry will be slack and speckled.
• Shortening1/3 cup is about 2 1/2 oz. Butter gives more flavour; lard or vegetable shortening is often said to give a flakier layer. Note that the recipe asks only that the mixture be worked with a fork until smooth, so keeping the fat cold and cutting it in is a modern preference rather than the instruction as written.
• Flour measure1 1/4 cups is roughly 5 1/2 oz. If the drained cheese still leaves the dough sticky, add flour a spoonful at a time rather than starting over.
• Chill wellThis is the hinge. An hour in the refrigerator lets the flour hydrate and firms the fat, which is what makes the sheet roll thin without tearing and keeps the shapes from slumping in the oven.
• Filling and leaksA scant teaspoon per square is enough. Thick preserves or a stiff fruit butter hold their place; loose jelly boils out. Seal the edges firmly, and if you fold the corners to the centre, pinch the seams rather than merely laying them together.
• YieldAbout 16 three-inch squares from a sheet rolled to 1/8 inch. Bake on a lined sheet with a little space between them and cool before moving, as they are fragile while hot.
• FinishingThe recipe gives no glaze. A dusting of confectioners' sugar once cool is traditional; an egg wash before baking will darken and gloss the tops if you prefer that look.