Modernistic Recipe-Menu Book

Jessie Marie DeBoth's 1929 cooking school, recipe by recipe - planked dinners, bridge parties, a Chinese supper, and a hundred kinds of Christmas cookie.

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Yankee Potatoes

1 quart chopped cooked potatoes 1/4 cup cream 1 teaspoon salt pepper 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 3 tablespoons butter Melt the butter in omelet pan, and add potatoes and seasonings when pan is hot. Pack lightly into pan and cook slowly for 25 minutes. Fold and serve like an omelet. Serves 6.

For the Modern Kitchen

A potato cake cooked in a skillet and folded like an omelet — essentially hash browns given a New England name. The whole thing hinges on low heat and patience.

A Little History

Chopped cooked potatoes crisped in butter belong to a long line of thrift cookery: the dish exists because boiled potatoes were cooked in quantity and there was often a bowl left over. The "Yankee" label turns up on a number of plain New England-style dishes in American cookbooks, and generally seems to signal plain ingredients and no sauce rather than any specific regional origin. The instruction to fold and serve it like an omelet borrows presentation from a more formal dish and applies it to leftovers.

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