Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book

The loose-leaf cookbook, c.1917 — built to be taken apart, from the principles of cookery through fireless cooking and school lunches.

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Fruit Filling

Whites of 3 eggs 1/2 cup sugar 4 tablespoons chopped citron Beat the whites to a stiff froth; add the sugar gradually, then the fruit and nuts. 4 tablespoons chopped raisins 1/2 cup chopped almonds 12 1/4 pound chopped figs

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a filling for a layer cake, and the page has come down to us badly scrambled: the loose-leaf format has jumbled the ingredient column into the method, and two key quantities are missing outright. The larger problem is that nothing here is ever cooked.

A Little History

Mrs. Fryer's book belongs to the loose-leaf era of American cookery publishing, when volumes were sold as ring-bound or perforated sheets so a housekeeper could add her own cards and clippings. On this page the ingredient column and the method have ended up interleaved, whatever the cause. Citron, raisins, figs and almonds are all shelf-stable goods that would have been bought by the pound and chopped at home. Binding them in beaten egg white rather than butter or cooked custard made for a quick filling between plain white cake layers. An uncooked white is the reason the recipe does not survive review now.

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