Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book

The loose-leaf cookbook, c.1917 — built to be taken apart, from the principles of cookery through fireless cooking and school lunches.

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Mutton (Tablespoons chopped onion)

2 tablespoons chopped onion 2 tablespoons butter or drippings Salt and pepper 2 cups water 1½ pounds mutton or lamb Cooked lima beans Select lean meat and cut it into two-inch pieces. Fry the onions in the butter; add the meat; season and brown; cover with water; 12 3 4 1. Neck 2. Chuck 3. Shoulder 4. Flank 5. Loin 6. Leg 6 54 23 DIAGRAM OF CUTS OF LAMB AND MUTTON cook until tender and serve in a border of lima beans, well cooked and seasoned with salt, pepper, butter and chopped parsley.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain braise: onion, browned meat, water, long slow cooking, served ringed with buttered lima beans. The stray numbers in the middle of the text are the caption of a cuts-of-lamb diagram that sat on the page, not part of the method.

A Little History

Mutton diagrams appeared in early twentieth-century American cookbooks because home cooks were being taught to buy by the cut, and the cheap, hard-working shoulder and neck were where economical cookery lived. Mutton was still ordinary meat in the United States when this was written, and it faded from American markets over the following decades for reasons often traced to changes in sheep raising and a growing preference for younger, milder lamb, which is why the book can offer the two words interchangeably in a way a modern butcher cannot. The lima bean border is a period convention as much as a side dish: serving a stew inside a ring of beans, rice or mashed potato was a familiar convention in household manuals of the era, giving a shapeless dish a presentable outline on the platter.

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