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Good Sandwiches
1 cup pecans. 1/2 cup seeded raisins. 1 apple. Juice of 1/2 lemon. 1 tablespoon sugar.
Spread between slices of white or brown bread.
DELICIOUS BROWN BREAD SANDWICH. 10 cts. Worth crystallized pineapple. 15 cts. Worth crystallized ginger. Same amount home-made citron. Grind all together. Butter bread and spread between. Use ginger and pineapple or citron, cherries and pineapple.
Two fillings run together here with no line between them: a pecan-raisin-apple spread and a candied-fruit spread for brown bread. Neither gives a method beyond "grind," so the work is in reading between the lines.
- The first filling needs grinding tooThe first filling probably needs grinding too -- no method is given, but pecans, raisins and apple would most likely have gone through a food chopper together, then been stirred with the lemon juice and sugar. A food processor pulsed in short bursts does the same job; run it too long and the apple turns to sauce and the bread goes soggy.
- The lemon juice is doing a jobIt keeps the ground apple from browning as much as it seasons. Add it as soon as the apple is cut, not at the end, and assemble the sandwiches within an hour or so.
- "10 cts. worth" is not a measurement we can recoverCandied fruit prices in this period varied by shop and season, so any conversion is a guess. Note that the recipe actually spends more on ginger (15 cts.) than on pineapple (10 cts.), with citron matched to one of the two -- the phrase "same amount" is ambiguous. If you find that much ginger too assertive, cut it back, but do so knowing you are departing from the proportions given.
- Home-made citronHome-candied "citron" in American kitchens often meant the rind of the citron melon, a hard white preserving melon, though commercial citron was the candied rind of the citrus fruit. The recipe's specifying home-made suggests the melon kind. Candied lemon or grapefruit peel is the closest thing on a shop shelf.
- Crystallized versus candiedIn trade usage crystallized fruit is sugar-coated and drier, candied or glace fruit wetter and stickier, though period writers used the words loosely. Either grinds, but wet glace fruit will clog a chopper plate, so chop it coarsely with an oiled knife first.
- Brown breadThis means a whole-wheat or graham loaf, or the steamed molasses-and-cornmeal Boston brown bread sold in tins. The steamed kind slices thin and holds a sticky filling well; butter it right to the edges so the sugar does not soak in.
- YieldThe candied-fruit filling makes roughly a cup; the pecan-raisin-apple filling makes rather more, closer to two, so expect it to stretch further -- perhaps a dozen full sandwiches, or several dozen small tea sandwiches with the crusts cut off.
Mary A. Wilson wrote for the Ladies' Home Journal. The pricing by cost rather than weight is a period habit that assumed a reader standing at a candy counter, and it turns up elsewhere in cookery of the 1910s and 1920s. Sweet sandwiches of this sort were associated with afternoon tea, the church supper and the packed lunch rather than with the meal table. The instruction to grind everything points to the hand-cranked food chopper clamped to the kitchen table, a common piece of equipment by this date and one cookbooks of the period reach for often.