Baked Halibut Steak

A plain oven-baked fish with no temperature and no timing given, as was normal in a period when cooks judged by eye. The whole thing hinges on pulling the halibut before it dries.

• Oven temperatureNo temperature or oven term is given here; a moderate oven, around 350-375F, is a reasonable working guess. At the upper end the milk reduces and browns slightly at the edges of the pan.
• TimingTwo pounds of halibut steak cut about an inch thick needs roughly 20 to 25 minutes. Halibut is very lean and turns cottony fast; official guidance for fish is 145F, though many cooks pull it when the centre is just opaque and flakes with light pressure, nearer 130-135F, and let carryover finish it.
• "Until all the milk is used"This means basting until the cup of milk has cooked down and been absorbed, not that the fish should stay in the oven until the pan is dry. If the milk is gone before the fish is done, stop basting rather than extending the cooking.
• The milk itselfWhole milk is intended. It will look curdled around the edges as it heats; that is normal and does not affect the finished dish. Skim milk gives a thin, watery pan liquid.
• Butter or other fat"Other fat" would in this period cover drippings, lard or a vegetable shortening. Butter suits halibut best; about two tablespoons, softened, rubbed over both sides of the steaks, is enough.
• Mushroom sauceThe recipe assumes you will make one separately; period mushroom sauces were built on either a white sauce or veloute or a brown sauce, with sauteed or canned mushrooms added. The pan liquid from the fish can be strained into it rather than discarded.
• YieldTwo pounds of steak serves four generously, or five with a substantial side.