Broiled Kidneys
6 lamb's or 4 calf's kidneys Cooking oil Salt and pepper Butter Lemon Parsley Cut the kidneys into halves, remove the white tubes and fat and cover with cold water for thirty minutes. Drain and dry on a piece of cheese-cloth. Brush with, or dip into, cooking oil. Broil slowly until brown on both sides. Remove from the broiler and put in pan, sprinkle with salt, pepper and a little melted butter. Cover the pan and set over a slow fire for a few minutes. Serve garnished with slices of lemon and sprigs of parsley.
A straightforward broil that depends almost entirely on trimming and on not overcooking. Lamb kidneys are still sold at good butchers; veal kidneys are a special order in most places.
- The hinge: stop while pinkKidneys turn from tender to rubbery quickly. Broil until browned outside and still faintly rosy at the centre; for halved lamb kidneys under a hot broiler this is usually only a few minutes a side, so watch them rather than the clock.
- "Broil slowly"Read as moderate rather than searing heat. Use a preheated broiler with the rack 5-6 inches down so the outside colours before the inside tightens.
- TrimmingSplit each kidney lengthwise through the curve, then cut out the pale core of tubes and the knob of hard fat at the hinge with the tip of a small knife. Anything left there tastes strongly of ammonia.
- The cold soakThe thirty minutes in cold water draws out blood and mellows the flavour. Salted water or a splash of milk works as well; some cooks use a short vinegar soak, then rinse.
- Cheese-clothAny lint-free towel or paper towel does the job. Drying matters because wet kidneys steam rather than brown.
- The covered finish"A slow fire" is low heat on the stovetop, a couple of minutes at most, to melt the butter through and settle the meat. Keep it brief; covered over heat they will go on cooking.
- SkeweringHalved kidneys curl under heat. A short skewer run through each half keeps them flat and makes turning easier.
- YieldSix lamb kidneys serve three as a main course, or four to six at breakfast alongside bacon and toast.