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Brown-Sugar Frosting
1 cup brown sugar 1/2 cup water 2 egg-whites 1 teaspoon vanilla or 1/2 teaspoon lemon extract Make a sirup of the sugar and water and cook to the soft-ball stage (238 degrees F.). Remove from the fire and cool while the egg-whites are beaten, then pour the sirup in a thin stream on to the stiff whites, beating the mixture constantly until thick enough to spread. Add the flavoring. Chopped nuts may be stirred into the frosting just before spreading.
This is an Italian meringue in all but name: hot sugar syrup whipped into beaten whites. The whole thing hangs on the temperature of the syrup and how long it sits off the heat.
- Do not over-cool the syrup"cool while the egg-whites are beaten" means only long enough to stop the boiling and let it settle. If it cools too far it thickens and is hard to work into the whites, so have the whites beaten and standing ready to receive it.
- 238F means a thermometerThe soft-ball stage is a narrow window, and a candy or digital thermometer clipped to the pan is easier to judge by than the cold-water test.
- Brown sugarA cup of light brown sugar, packed, is about 7 oz. Dark brown gives a stronger molasses flavour that can overwhelm the vanilla.
- BeatingBy hand this takes a second pair of arms; a stand or hand mixer makes it far easier. Pour the syrup down the side of the bowl in a thin stream, avoiding the whisk, or it will fling hardened threads up the sides.
- Whipping to the right pointKeep beating until the bowl is no more than warm to the touch and the meringue holds a firm peak that folds over at the tip. That is usually 6 to 10 minutes. Stop there: overbeaten boiled frosting turns dry and tears the cake surface.
- Egg whitesThe hot syrup heats the whites but does not reliably pasteurise them, particularly once it has been allowed to cool. If you are serving anyone pregnant, elderly, very young or immune-compromised, use pasteurised whites or powdered egg white.
- HumidityBoiled frostings absorb moisture and will weep on a wet day. Make it on the drier of two days if you have the choice, and spread it the moment it is thick enough.
- Yield and keepingEnough to fill and cover a two-layer 8-inch cake. It crusts within a few hours and cannot be stored or rewhipped, so use it the day it is made.