Clam Fritters

A straightforward drop fritter, thickened by the clams themselves. The recipe assumes you are shucking your own clams and saving the liquor, and it gives no frying temperature or time.

• Soft clamsThese are steamers (Mya arenaria), the long-necked East Coast clam, not hard-shell quahogs. Two dozen shucked will give you somewhere between one and two cups of chopped meat, depending on their size. Chopped canned clams work, and you can use the packing liquid for the half cup of clam liquor.
• Trim the necksSoft clams have a dark siphon sheath that stays tough no matter how briefly it fries. Peel it off before chopping, or the fritters will be gritty and chewy in patches.
• Fat temperatureThe recipe says only "deep fat" and gives no reading. For fritters of this kind 365-375F works: below that the batter absorbs oil; above it the outside colors before the center sets. Fry two to three minutes, turning once, until deep gold.
• Batter consistencyTwo cups flour to a cup and a half of liquid gives a stiff drop batter that holds its shape off the spoon. If the clams release more liquid than expected, add flour a spoonful at a time rather than thinning it into pancake batter.
• Rest the batterTen to fifteen minutes after mixing lets the flour hydrate and the fritters come out lighter. Fry a single test spoonful first to check seasoning and cooking time before committing the batch.
• Yield and servingDropped by the tablespoon as directed, the batter makes a large batch, considerably more than two dozen small fritters. Drain on a rack rather than paper so the undersides stay crisp; lemon wedges or tartar sauce are the usual accompaniment.