Cranberry Catchup

A sieved, spiced cranberry condiment in the older sense of "catchup" — thick, sharp and sweet rather than tomato-based. The original leaves the vinegar quantity to the cook's judgment, which is the main thing to sort out before starting.

• How much vinegar"Cover them with vinegar" for 2 1/2 pounds (about 10 cups) of berries is vague; comparable cranberry catchups use far less than true covering, and 2 to 2 1/2 cups in a wide pan is generally enough to keep them from scorching before they release their own juice. Use a 5% cider or white wine vinegar; a lower-acidity vinegar will give a milder, less sharp relish.
• Cooking the berriesOver medium heat the skins split in 8 to 10 minutes. Once they have all burst there is nothing to gain by longer boiling, and the pulp only sticks to the pan.
• SievingA food mill or a coarse sieve and a stiff spoon both work. Cranberry skins are tough, so expect to push firmly and to discard a few tablespoons of skin and seed at the end.
• The spicing is heavy by designA full tablespoon of ground cinnamon plus a teaspoon of cloves is assertive; that is deliberate in a catchup meant to be spooned out sparingly. If your cinnamon is fresh and strong, start with two teaspoons and taste.
• "Return to the mixture to the fire""Return the mixture to the fire" -- This means a saucepan on direct heat. The pur\the a a heavy pan, keep the heat low and stir often. Reckon on 30 to 40 minutes to reduce to a spoonable ketchup consistency.
• SealingPouring hot preserves into jars and simply capping them — open-kettle canning — is no longer accepted practice, as it relies on the hot fill alone to keep out mould and yeast. Refrigerate the finished catchup and use it within a few weeks, or follow current tested guidance for water-bath processing a high-acid relish.
• YieldAbout 3 to 4 cups, depending on how far you reduce it. Enough for three or four half-pint jars.