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Potatoes on the Half-Shell
Select medium-sized potatoes and bake. Remove the top of each potato so as to make it boat shape. Scoop out the inside, being careful not to break the shell. Mash very thoroughly--it is well to put them through a ricer--add butter, salt and hot milk and beat well. Pile the mixture lightly into the shells, do not smooth down the top, stand each in a shallow pan, return to the oven and brown lightly on top. A quick oven is required to brown the potatoes. If the potatoes are too large for a single serving, they may be cut in two lengthwise, and each half may be stuffed.
A twice-baked potato, given without quantities on the assumption that the cook will judge butter and milk by feel. The proportions below and a couple of temperatures are all it needs.
- Oven temperaturesNo temperature is given for the first bake; 400F until a skewer slides through the centre, about an hour for medium russets, works well. A "quick oven" is usually taken to be somewhere around 425-450F; the filled shells need only 10-15 minutes there to take colour.
- ProportionsFor six medium potatoes, figure on about 4 tablespoons butter, 1/2 cup hot milk and a teaspoon of salt. Add the milk a little at a time -- the mixture should hold a peak, not slump.
- Hot milk mattersCold milk cools the potato and stiffens it, so it takes more beating to bring together. Warm the milk before it goes in, and work quickly while the flesh is still steaming.
- The ricerThe recipe suggests putting the potato through a ricer, and it is worth following. Potato beaten in a food processor turns to paste as the starch cells rupture; riced potato stays light.
- Don't smooth the topThe rough surface is deliberate. Peaks and ridges catch the heat and brown; a smoothed top stays pale. A fork drawn across the surface does the same job.
- Choosing potatoesA dry, floury variety -- russet or King Edward -- gives the fluffy interior and the sturdy skin the recipe depends on. Waxy salad potatoes will not mash to the same texture.
- YieldOne whole potato per person, or one half if they are large. The filling can be piped rather than piled, and the shells can be stuffed several hours ahead and browned at the last minute.