Radish Sandwiches

An open-face or closed tea sandwich that depends on the radishes staying crisp. Assemble it within minutes of serving.

• Potted hamBy 1929 this was often a commercially canned potted or deviled ham, a fine salty paste sold in small tins, though home-potted ham was still made as well. Modern deviled ham spread is a close stand-in; a smooth ham pate or finely processed cooked ham with a little butter also works.
• RadishesThe recipe calls for peeling, which may reflect coarser-skinned varieties than we now buy. Today's small red globe radishes need only trimming, and the skin supplies most of the colour. Slice them thin with a mandoline or a sharp knife.
• Mayonnaise as glueThe "rich, thick" mayonnaise is doing structural work, holding each slice in place. Commercial mayonnaise is thick enough; thinned or low-fat versions will slide and weep.
• Salt the radishes, or don'tSalting draws out water and softens the slices, which is the opposite of what this sandwich wants. The potted ham already carries plenty of salt.
• Bread"Thin slices" is all the recipe says; a firm white or wheat sandwich loaf, sliced as thin as it will hold, suits it, with crusts removed if you are serving these as tea sandwiches. Soft modern bread tears under a stiff spread, so let the ham come to room temperature first.
• Quantity of mayonnaiseThe 1/4 to 1/2 cup range is generous for half a cup of radishes; start at the low end and use only what clings.
• YieldThe recipe gives no yield; 1/2 cup of potted ham will cover roughly four to six thin slices of bread, which can be cut into small tea-sized pieces.