Waffles

A plain 1920s waffle batter written for a hinged cast-iron waffle iron set over a burner. It works in an electric iron with almost no change, but the handling of the eggs and the iron itself is where it succeeds or fails.

• The iron is the hingeThe instruction to reheat the iron for a minute between waffles is the important line. A stovetop iron loses heat every time it is opened and filled; an underheated iron gives a pale, soggy waffle that sticks. On an electric iron, wait for the ready indicator to cycle back before pouring the next round.
• Beat the eggs properly"Beaten until very light" means whole eggs whipped pale and foamy, three to four minutes by hand or about a minute with a mixer. That aeration is doing real work here, since there is very little fat and no separated whites.
• Separating the whitesFor a crisper waffle, beat the yolks into the batter and fold in the whites whipped to soft peaks at the end. The book gives the simpler whole-egg method, which yields a softer, more pancake-like waffle.
• FatOne tablespoon is low by modern standards, which is why the greasing instruction is emphatic. Melted butter, bacon fat or a neutral oil all work; cool the melted fat slightly so it does not scramble the eggs.
• Baking powderThree teaspoons to 1 1/2 cups flour is a heavy dose by modern standards. Two teaspoons of modern double-acting powder will give plenty of lift.
• Batter thicknessThis comes out pourable, roughly the consistency of heavy cream. If it seems thin, resist adding flour before you bake one test waffle; the eggs set it as it cooks.
• Timing and yieldThe recipe gives no times. Figure three to five minutes per waffle, until the steam coming off the iron slows noticeably. The batch makes about four standard round waffles, enough for two to three people.
• GreasingGrease a bare cast-iron iron before every waffle, not just the first. A modern nonstick iron needs a light coat only at the start.