Outdoor Cooking

Cooking out of doors in 1940 — bean holes, spits, clambakes and burgoo, from three food writers who thought a campfire was the best joke going.

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Cajun Couche Couche

2 CUPS CORN MEAL 1/2 TEASPOON SALT 11/2 CUPS BOILING WATER 3 TEASPOONS BAKING POWDER 2 EGGS, WELL BEATEN I TEASPOON FAT Mix meal and salt, stir in boiling water, and let cool. Stir in baking powder and eggs. Heat fat in Dutch oven or thick frying pan. Pour in the batter, and let cook until a thin crust is formed on the bottom. With a pan cake turner scrape this crust loose and let it remain in rest of batter. Repeat several times. Reduce heat, cover close and let steam slowly until done, about 10 minutes. Eat with morning coffee or eat for dessert with butter and syrup. Cajuns are the Arcadian French celebrated in Longfellow's Evangeline who settled in southern Louisiana and intermarried with the Indians, and couche couche is their corruption of couscous, an Arabian dish still common in southern France.

For the Modern Kitchen

A skillet cornmeal mush cooked crust-side-down and repeatedly scraped, so the finished dish is a mass of loose browned crumbs rather than a smooth porridge. The scraping is the whole technique.

A Little History

Couche couche is a Louisiana French breakfast staple, cooked in cast iron and eaten with milk, syrup or coffee, and it belongs to a wide family of New World cornmeal mushes that also includes grits, cush and fried mush. The book's etymology is the one usually offered: that the name is a rendering of couscous, and the connection is traditionally drawn either to North African cookery by way of French colonial contact or, more often in recent accounts, to African cooks in Louisiana kitchens. Either way it is an inherited name attached to a wholly maize-based dish, since couscous proper is made from wheat semolina rolled by hand, not from cornmeal scalded in a pan. The Acadians the entry describes were expelled from Nova Scotia by the British beginning in 1755 and resettled in south Louisiana, a story Longfellow turned into the narrative poem Evangeline in 1847; "Arcadian," the spelling the book uses, is a long-standing variant of "Acadian."

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