Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-Dish Dainties

Salads, sandwiches and chafing-dish dainties from the Boston Cooking-School's magazine editor, with fifty photographed dishes.

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Salad Chiffonade

Seed two green peppers, boil two or three minutes, then cut in shreds. Shred the light and dark leaves of a head of lettuce, or endive, separately. Cut three tomatoes in shreds. Remove the peel and skin from one large grapefruit.

Serve with French dressing, seasoning, and then arranging each article separately upon the servingdish, having a circle of light and then dark green material about the edge.

For the Modern Kitchen

A composed rather than tossed salad: each element is shredded, dressed on its own, then laid out in bands of colour. The instructions assume a cook who already knows what French dressing is and how to break down a grapefruit.

A Little History

Chiffonade derives from chiffon, a rag, and is often loosely rendered as a heap of rags; in nineteenth-century kitchen French it named herbs or greens cut into fine ribbons, said to be used chiefly to garnish soup. American cookery writers of the 1900s are generally thought to have taken up the word for salads built out of shredded components, and Janet McKenzie Hill's Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing Dish Dainties belongs squarely to that moment, when the salad course was being reimagined as an exercise in arrangement rather than a bowl of dressed greens. The grapefruit may serve as a rough period marker: Florida groves were shipping in commercial quantity by the turn of the century, and the fruit moved quickly from a curiosity to a fashionable salad ingredient prized for its sharpness against oil and vinegar. The instruction to ring the dish with light green and then dark green reflects the era's conviction that a salad was judged first by the eye.

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