Scarlet Raspberry Ice

The structure is a plain water ice — fruit, sugar syrup, whole berries — but the finishing step folds three raw egg whites into a mixture that is never heated at any point, and that is where it fails for a modern kitchen.

• Raw egg white, never cookedThe whites go in beaten to a froth at the end of churning and the ice is then packed down and held until wanted. Nothing in the recipe reaches a temperature that would kill Salmonella; freezing preserves the organism rather than destroying it.
• Who it was written forThis is a period technique for lightening an ice with fresh whites, from an era before egg-borne salmonellosis was understood as a supply-chain problem. If you want a raspberry ice with a frothed white folded in, use a current recipe written around pasteurized whites or a cooked meringue.
• "Freezer" and packingThe vessel meant is a hand-crank churn set in a bucket of ice and coarse salt, not an appliance. "Pack down the freezer with more ice and salt" means repacking the surrounding bucket so the sealed can holds its temperature while standing — the period equivalent of a hardening step.
• Rocky Mountain wild raspberriesWild raspberries are generally smaller and seedier than cultivated fruit, and three to four pints may yield less pulp than the same volume of supermarket raspberries. The recipe holds back the second pint of water to help the pulp through the strainer when it goes dry.
• The "white cream" is not in this recipeThe serving instruction assumes a second preparation — a plain white ice cream or whipped cream — banked in the glass with the scarlet ice piled in the hollow. Nothing above makes it, so the line presumably refers to a preparation given elsewhere.
• Sugar loadA pound and a half of sugar to two pints of water is roughly three parts sugar to four parts water by weight, and only the first pint is boiled into the syrup. Wild raspberries are sharp enough to carry it; cultivated fruit would read as very sweet.