The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Baked Cod with Oyster Stuffing

Clean a four-pound cod, sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over with lemon juice, stuff, and sew. Gash, skewer, and bake as Baked Halibut with Stuffing. Serve with Oyster Sauce. 1 cup cracker crumbs 1/4 cup melted butter ¼ teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon pepper

For the Modern Kitchen

Fannie Farmer wrote for cooks who owned the whole book, so this entry is largely a set of cross-references. The stuffing list is also incomplete as printed — oysters belong in it, about a cup, drained and coarsely chopped, bound with the crumbs and butter.

A Little History

Baked stuffed cod belongs to the New England cooking that the Boston Cooking School was codifying in the 1890s, when cod was still cheap, local and the region's defining fish — the "sacred cod" hanging in the Massachusetts State House was a monument to the trade that built Boston's fortunes. Pairing it with oysters was equally regional and equally economical: oysters were an everyday food in nineteenth-century American cities, sold by the barrel and used freely in stuffings, sauces and stews rather than treated as a luxury. The terse cross-referencing style — gash, skewer, and bake as Baked Halibut — is characteristic of Farmer, who assumed her reader was working through a course of instruction rather than opening the book at random.

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