The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Oyster Stuffing (Teaspoons lemon juice)

1 cup cracker crumbs. 1/4 cup melted butter. 1/2 teaspoon salt. 1/8 teaspoon pepper. 1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice. ½ teaspoons lemon juice 1½ tablespoon finely chopped parsley 1 cup oysters Add seasonings and butter to cracker crumbs. Clean oysters, and remove tough muscles; add soft parts to mixture, with two tablespoons oyster liquor to moisten.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

The text as printed is a fragment: the cracker crumbs, butter and seasonings are called for in the method but their quantities have dropped out of the ingredient list. Treat it as a ratio to be rebuilt rather than a recipe to be followed line by line.

A Little History

Oysters were cheap protein in nineteenth-century America, sold by the barrel and shipped inland on ice and rail, and they turn up in the Boston Cooking-School Cook Book far more often than a modern reader expects — in soups, patties, fritters, scallops and stuffings. Fannie Farmer's book, first published in 1896, was written for households in a city where the oyster trade was still enormous, and the shellfish chapter reflects a New England kitchen in which oysters were, by all appearances, an ordinary rather than a luxury purchase. Oyster stuffing for the holiday bird is often traced to that same abundance along the Atlantic seaboard; it is generally said to have survived most stubbornly in the Chesapeake and coastal South. The crackers are the tell of the period: commercial soda and "common" crackers were a pantry staple in the era before sliced bread, and cookbooks of the 1890s reach for them as a matter of course wherever a dry crumb is wanted.

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