The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Broiled Fillets of Beef

Slices cut from the tenderloin are called sliced fillets of beef. Wipe sliced fillets, place in greased broiler, and broil four or five minutes over a clear fire. These may be served with Maître d'Hôtel Butter or Mushroom Sauce.

Cutlets of Tenderloin with Chestnut Purée Shape slices of tenderloin, one inch thick, in circular pieces. Broil five minutes. Spread with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrange on platter around a mound of Chestnut Purée.

Sautéd Mignon Fillets of Beef with Sauce Figaro Wipe and sauté small fillets in hot omelet pan. Arrange in a circle on platter with cock's-comb shaped croûtons between, and pour sauce in the centre. Serve as a luncheon dish with Brussels Sprouts or String Beans.

Sautéd Mignon Fillets of Beef with Sauce Trianon Wipe and sauté small fillets in hot omelet pan. Arrange in a circle around a mound of fried potato balls sprinkled with parsley. Put Sauce Trianon on each fillet.

Sautéd Fillets of Beef à la Moelle Cut beef tenderloin in slices one inch thick, and trim into circular shapes. Season with salt and pepper, and broil six minutes in hot buttered frying-pan. Remove marrow from a marrow-bone, cut in one-third inch slices, poach in boiling water, and drain. Put a slice of marrow on each fillet. To liquor in pan add one tablespoon butter, two tablespoons flour, and one cup Brown Stock. Season with salt, pepper, and Madeira wine. Pour sauce around meat.

Sautéd Fillets of Beef, Cherry Sauce Prepare and cook six fillets same as Sautéd Fillets of Beef à la Moelle. Arrange on serving dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, spread with butter, and pour over.

Cherry Sauce. Soak one-fourth cup glacéd cherries fifteen minntes in boiling water. Drain, cut in halves, cover with Sherry wine, and let stand three hours.

Sautéd Fillets of Beef with Stuffed Mushroom Caps Prepare and cook six fillets same as Sautéd Fillets of Beef à la Moelle omitting the marrow. Put a sautéd stuffed mushroom cap on each, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are browned. Remove to serving dish, pour around Espagnole Sauce, and garnish caps with strips of red and green pepper cut in fancy shapes.

Stuffing for Mushroom Caps. Clean and finely chop six mushroom caps; add one tablespoon each of parsley and onion finely chopped, and one tablespoon butter. Moisten with Espagnole Sauce (See p. 200).

Châteaubriand of Beef Trim off fat and skin from three pounds of beef cut from centre of fillet and flatten with a broad-bladed cleaver. Sprinkle with salt, brush over with olive oil, and broil over a clear fire twenty minutes. Remove to serving dish, garnish with red pepper cut in fancy shapes and parsley. Serve with Espagnole Sauce. To one and one-half cups rich brown sauce add two-thirds teaspoon meat extract, one tablespoon lemon juice, and one and one-half tablespoons finely chopped parsley. Just before serving add one tablespoon butter and salt and pepper to taste.

For the Modern Kitchen

A cluster of tenderloin preparations from the French-restaurant end of Fannie Farmer's repertoire, written for cooks who had a coal range and a set of mother sauces on hand. The instructions assume knowledge the book supplies elsewhere; the timings assume beef served rare.

A Little History

Châteaubriand is generally traced to the kitchen of François-René de Chateaubriand, the writer and diplomat, and credited by tradition to his chef Montmireil in the 1820s — the story that the thick centre-cut steak was originally cooked between two lesser steaks that were then discarded is repeated everywhere and documented nowhere. What is certain is that by 1896, when the Boston Cooking School Cook Book first appeared, the whole vocabulary on this page — Figaro, Trianon, à la Moelle, Espagnole, mignon fillets ringed around a mound of something — belonged to French restaurant cookery as it was practised in the grand hotels of Paris, London and New York. Fannie Farmer's achievement was to hand that vocabulary to a middle-class American household with one cook and a coal range, alongside the plain boiled dinners in the same chapter. The tenderloin was already the expensive cut, and the marrow bone, the candied cherries in sherry and the peppers cut in fancy shapes mark these as company dishes rather than weeknight ones.

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