The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Farina Cakes with Jelly

2 cups scalded milk ½ cup farina (scant) 1/4 cup sugar ½ teaspoon salt 1 egg Mix farina, sugar, and salt, add to milk, and cook in double boiler twenty minutes, stirring constantly until mixture has thickened. Add egg slightly beaten, pour into a buttered shallow pan, and brush over with one egg slightly beaten and diluted with one tablespoon milk. Brown in a moderate Cut in squares, and serve with a cube of jelly on each oven. square.

For the Modern Kitchen

A stiff sweetened semolina pudding, chilled firm, glazed with egg and browned. The printed text has scrambled lines — the instruction reads "Brown in a moderate oven. Cut in squares, and serve with a cube of jelly on each square."

A Little History

Farina puddings can sit among the entrées rather than the desserts because a cooking-school dinner of the period used the entrée slot for small, made dishes served between the fish and the roast — often mild, moulded and enriched, and not necessarily savoury. Farina itself was one of the new industrial cereals of the late nineteenth century: finely milled wheat middlings sold in cartons, marketed as digestible invalid and nursery food, and taken up by cooking-school teachers. Cookery books of the era are full of these cheap starch bases dressed up with an egg glaze and a spot of bright jelly — a technique that turns a bowl of porridge into something that can be plated. The currant jelly cube was a standard garnish of the era, used with equal freedom on meat and on sweets.

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