The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Halibut Marguerites

Line a buttered tablespoon with Fish Force-meat II. Fill with Creamed Lobster, cover with force-meat, and garnish with force-meat, forced through a pastry bag and tube, in the form of a marguerite, having the centre colored yellow. Slip from spoon into boiling water, and cook eight minutes. Serve with Béchamel or Lobster Sauce.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a quenelle dressed up as a flower, and the whole thing hinges on the poaching water rather than the piping. Fannie Farmer assumes you have her Fish Force-meat II and Creamed Lobster already made, so the page reads as a shorthand.

A Little History

Quenelles — forcemeat poached in a spoon-shaped mold — came into American cooking straight from French professional practice. The name here refers to the garnish: marguerite is French for daisy, and the piped flower with a yellow eye was a stock decorative motif of the era, applied to everything from consommé to cake icing. In the long formal dinner of the period the entrée was a small made dish served between the fish and the roast, judged largely on its appearance, which is why a recipe this short devotes most of its words to shaping and none to seasoning. Farmer's habit of cross-referencing — Fish Force-meat II, Creamed Lobster, Béchamel — also shows how her book was meant to be used: as a system of components rather than a set of standalone dishes.

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