The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Nutmeg (Lb dates stoned and cut)

3 tablespoons butter. 1/2 cup molasses. 1/2 cup milk. 1 7/8 cups flour. 1/2 teaspoon soda. Salt. Clove. Allspice. 1/4 teaspoon each. ½ lb. dates, stoned and cut in pieces Mix and steam same as Graham Pudding. Serve with Wine Sauce. A simple, delicious pudding without egg. Puddings may be steamed in buttered one-pound bakingpowder boxes, providing they do not leak, and are attractive in shape and easy to serve.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a variation rather than a standalone recipe: it borrows the batter from Graham Pudding elsewhere in the book and adds dates. The page as printed has lost most of its ingredient list, so read it as an instruction to fold 1½ lb of chopped dates into that base.

A Little History

Steamed puddings were the practical dessert of a nineteenth-century American kitchen: they needed no oven, tolerated a slow fire, and used up whatever flour, dried fruit and molasses the pantry held. The Graham flour base ties this one to Sylvester Graham, the temperance reformer whose advocacy of coarse unbolted wheat in the 1830s had, by Fannie Farmer's day, been thoroughly absorbed into ordinary cooking as simply a kind of flour. Dates arrived in quantity through the late-century import trade and turn up repeatedly in Boston Cooking School recipes as a sweetener and a bulking fruit. The suggestion to steam in one-pound baking-powder boxes is a small piece of period evidence in itself — the tins are offered permissively, as something a reader might well have to hand, provided they do not leak.

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