The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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One Egg Muffins II

4 teaspoons baking powder 1 cup milk 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons melted butter 1 egg Mix and bake as One Egg Muffin I.

Berry Muffins I (without eggs) 2 cups flour 1/4 cup sugar 4 teaspoons baking powder 2 tablespoon butter 1 cup milk (scant) 1 cup berries 1/2 teaspoon salt Mix and sift dry ingredients; work in butter with tips of fingers; add milk and berries. ¼ cup butter 1/3 cup sugar 1 egg 2⅔ cups flour

For the Modern Kitchen

A pair of quick muffin formulas from the era when the muffin ring on a griddle was giving way to the gem pan. The berry version is the one given here in full, and its method — cutting cold butter into the dry mix, then wetting it all at once — is closer to a scone than to a modern creamed muffin.

A Little History

Muffin recipes multiply in The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book because the breakfast bread of a middle-class American household in the 1890s was expected to be hot, fresh and made that morning, and chemical leavening had made that possible without a yeast sponge set the night before. The numbered variants — One Egg Muffins I and II, Berry Muffins with and without eggs — follow the abbreviated cross-referencing of a teaching text, laying out a base formula and then its variations; eggs were seasonal and priced accordingly, and it may be that a version omitting them entirely earned its own entry for that reason, though the book does not say so. The berries would have been whatever the region supplied, and in New England that meant blueberries and huckleberries picked and used the same week.

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