The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Scrambled Eggs

5 eggs. 1/2 cup milk. 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon pepper 2 tablespoons butter Beat eggs slightly with silver fork; add salt, pepper, and milk. Heat omelet pan, put in butter, and when melted, turn in the mixture. Cook until of creamy consistency, stirring and scraping from bottom of the pan.

For the Modern Kitchen

A bare-bones set of directions from Fannie Farmer's kitchen, printed with part of the ingredient list missing — the eggs and milk are named in the method but their quantities have dropped out of this copy. The seasoning given (1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/8 teaspoon pepper) and 2 tablespoons butter suit six eggs, the standard proportion in the book, with about 6 tablespoons of milk.

A Little History

Scrambled eggs need no origin story, but their treatment in The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book (1896) says a good deal about the book. Fannie Farmer is the name most associated with level measurement in American cooking — the standardised teaspoon and cup that displaced "a piece of butter the size of an egg" — though she built on work already under way at the Boston Cooking School, and even a dish this elementary is pinned down to 1/2 teaspoon of salt and 1/8 of pepper. The milk is worth noting: adding liquid to scrambled eggs was common in nineteenth-century American and English recipes, and it is often explained as a way of stretching eggs and slowing the setting of the protein, though the motive is not stated here. The specification of a silver fork suggests a household that owned silver, consistent with the school's audience of middle-class women and the servants they trained.

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