The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Ways of Warming Over Veal

Minced Veal on Toast Prepare as Minced Lamb on Toast, using veal in place of lamb.

For the Modern Kitchen

A one-line cross-reference from the chapter on using up cooked veal. Minced Lamb on Toast, the parent recipe, is cold cooked meat chopped fine, bound in a thin white sauce, seasoned, heated through and spooned over buttered toast — so everything worth saying here is about the meat and the sauce.

A Little History

Nineteenth-century American cookbooks devote whole chapters to "warmed-over" or "rechauffe" dishes, and the reason is economic rather than culinary: a joint of meat was bought and roasted whole, and what came off it cold on Monday still had to feed the household. The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book organises these by meat, which is why veal gets its own short list and why several entries are nothing more than a pointer to the lamb version — the technique is identical, only the animal changes. Veal was cheaper and more widely eaten in the United States then than now, and its mildness made it a natural partner for the white sauce that underpins so much of this book. The formula of chopped meat plus bechamel plus toast is the same one that produces creamed chicken, chipped beef and countless chafing-dish suppers of the period; toast served as the plate and the reason the dish counted as a meal.

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