The Bride's Cook Book

A wedding present from the advertisers, San Francisco, c.1918 — a young wife's whole cookery course, paid for by the Blue Bird washer, the Portland Studio and Ghirardelli's chocolate.

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Casserole of Fish and Rice

2 Minced Cooked Fish 1/4 Teaspoon Pepper Salt 1 Tablespoon Parsley 1/4 Teaspoon Scraped Onion 1 Egg 1/4 Cup Crumbs Stock to Moisten 4 Cups Cooked Rice 1109 115 Line buttered dish with cooked rice, put fish mixture in center, and cover with rice. Steam 40 minutes. Serve with tomato sauce it 3 Egg Yolks 3 Tablespoons Hot Water 1/4 Teaspoonful Salt Dash of Pepper 1/2 Cupful Cooked Cereals 3 Egg Whites 1 Cupful Left-over Fish in White Sauce Beat egg yolks until thick and lemon colored; add hot water and seasoning; then fold in the stiffly beaten whites.

Pour mixture into a hot, greased skillet or omelet pan and cook slowly until lightly browned underneath, turning the skillet around frequently, that it may brown evenly. Set in the oven to finish cooking the top. It is done when rather firm to a light pressure of the finger.

With a sharp knife make a two-inch cut across each side. Remove to a hot platter; on one-half spread the mixture of cooked cereal and fish, well seasoned; fold over the omelet at the cut edges and serve at once. A creamed fish sauce may be poured over the entire omelet if preferred.

For the Modern Kitchen

Two separate dishes have been run together here by the scanner: a steamed rice-and-fish mould served with tomato sauce, and a puffy omelet filled with leftover fish. The stray "1109 115" is page or index numbering, not an ingredient.

A Little History

Both dishes belong to the same household economy: they exist to use up cooked fish. Cookbooks of this period assumed a cold larder and a moral objection to waste, and the standard answer was to bind leftovers with egg and crumbs and re-present them in a new shape — a rice-lined mould, a croquette, a fold of omelet. Steaming a lined mould rather than baking it was the older method. The puffy or "souffléed" omelet, with the whites beaten separately and the pan finished in the oven, is generally traced to the American cooking-school tradition, and the instruction to test for doneness with a light finger pressure is the sort of tactile cue those schools drilled into students who had no thermometer.

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