The Bride's Cook Book

A wedding present from the advertisers, San Francisco, c.1918 — a young wife's whole cookery course, paid for by the Blue Bird washer, the Portland Studio and Ghirardelli's chocolate.

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Hard Sauce (Beat cup sugar and cup butter)

Beat 1 cup sugar and 1/2 cup butter to white cream; add whites 2 eggs; beat few minutes longer; add tablespoon brandy and teaspoon nutmeg; put on ice until needed.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a standard hard sauce enriched with uncooked egg white, and that addition is what puts it out of reach. Nothing in the method brings the eggs anywhere near a safe temperature, and the sauce is then held cold for an indefinite period.

A Little History

Hard sauce is generally explained as taking its name from its firmness — it is served set and cold against a hot steamed pudding, the contrast being the point, rather than from any difficulty in making it. In Britain a brandy-flavoured version is called brandy butter and belongs to Christmas pudding; American cookbooks of the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries print it under the plainer name, often with a rum, sherry or vanilla variant alongside. Beaten egg white appears in some period versions as a way of lightening the mixture into something closer to a foam.

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