The Bride's Cook Book

A wedding present from the advertisers, San Francisco, c.1918 — a young wife's whole cookery course, paid for by the Blue Bird washer, the Portland Studio and Ghirardelli's chocolate.

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Sauce for Ice Cream

2 Tablespoons Butter 2 Teaspoons Cornstarch 1/2 Cup Honey Cook together the cornstarch and butter thoroughly, being careful not to brown them. Add the honey and cook the mixture until it becomes hard when dropped into cold water and until all taste of raw cornstarch has been removed.

For the Modern Kitchen

A three-ingredient honey caramel meant to be poured hot over cold ice cream, where it stiffens into a chewy shell. The whole trick is in the cold-water test.

A Little History

Pudding-sauce chapters in household cookbooks of the early twentieth century lean heavily on things a new cook could make from the pantry shelf. Honey served here as both sweetener and syrup, a useful role in the years when wartime sugar conservation campaigns pushed American home cooks toward honey, molasses and corn syrup as substitutes. The cornstarch-and-butter base is the same thickening logic used across the era's dessert sauces -- a starch cooked in fat to keep it from lumping -- while the cold-water test for doneness is borrowed straight from candy making, which household manuals of the period commonly taught before thermometers were common in kitchens. The result belongs to the same family as the hot fudge and butterscotch sauces of the period: a hot syrup that hardens on contact with cold cream.

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