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Sect. 2.-Beef
355. For the most economical joints see Economical Housekeeper, pages 19, 20. 356. ROAST BEEF being generally thick in substance, and the joint of large size, the fire must be made of plenty of coals. The sirloin requires the fat to be prepared on the inside, as well as that on the ribs. Constant basting is necessary at first with strong salt and water, and afterwards with its own dripping. Gravy may always be made for beef according to the plan given at page 96. Horseradish scraped is generally served round the dish; and also for sauce (see Horseradish Sauce). Time for roasting, from a quarter of an hour per pound, to twenty minutes, according to the size of the joint and the taste of those who intend to partake of it, some liking meat half done, while others require it entirely free from a red colour. 357. A BEEF HEART, or as it is sometimes called BULLOCK'S HEART, should be well washed (not soaked) in water, and stuffed with the same as for veal (see pars. 332, 333). Tic up all the openings with strong cotton, and then roast according to weight (fifteen to twenty minutes per pound, the latter for most tastes).
Two entries here: a general method for roast beef before an open fire, and a stuffed bullock's heart cooked the same way. Both assume a spit turning before a coal fire, with a dripping pan beneath; the translation to an oven changes the timings more than the technique.
- Roast by temperature, not by the poundFifteen to twenty minutes per pound was the fireside rule, and it holds roughly for an oven at 350F once the joint has had 20 minutes at 450F to brown. A probe in the thickest part away from bone is far more reliable: 125F for rare, 135F medium-rare, and 160F or above for meat "entirely free from a red colour" after resting.
- Rest the jointThe original says nothing about resting. A large sirloin or rib needs 20 to 30 minutes loosely tented before carving, and it will climb about 5F in that time, so pull it early.
- Basting with salt and waterThe first bastings with strong brine gave way to the joint's own dripping once the fat began to run; the reason is not given in the text. In an oven this mainly adds steam and softens the surface. Salt the joint generously an hour or more ahead instead, and baste with the rendered fat only.
- "The fat prepared on the inside"A whole sirloin came with the kidney suet still attached beneath. Modern butchery removes it, so a well-marbled rib roast or a sirloin tied with a fat cap over the top does the same job. If the joint is very lean, tie a sheet of beef fat or barding over it.
- The gravy and the drippingThe recipe refers the reader to a gravy plan given earlier in the book, which is not reproduced here. For a modern version: pour off the clear fat, deglaze the roasting tin with stock or water, scrape up the browned residue, and reduce.
- HorseradishScraped fresh horseradish round the dish means shavings taken off the root with a knife, not the grated paste in a jar. Cut root loses its pungency fairly quickly once exposed to air, so scrape it shortly before serving.
- Beef heart is not a roasting cutHeart is dense, almost fat-free working muscle. Twenty minutes per pound in dry heat will give something firm and dry unless it is trimmed hard of the tough outer sinew and inner valves first, and even then it is best served rare and sliced very thin. Braising it covered with liquid for two to three hours is an alternative that suits the stuffing well.
- Stuffing and food safetyThe veal forcemeat referred to is given elsewhere in the book (pars. 332, 333) and is not reproduced here. Stuffing sits in the coldest part of the joint, so if the heart is stuffed the centre of the filling should reach 165F, which in practice means the surrounding meat will be well done.
- YieldAllow about 12 oz of bone-in roasting beef or 8 oz boneless per person. A bullock's heart weighs 3 to 5 lb and, once trimmed, serves four to six.