The Butterick Book of Recipes and Household Helps

The pattern people's household book, 1927 — five hundred recipes, then how to lay a table, take out a stain and stock a first-aid cabinet.

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French Fried Potatoes

Wash and pare potatoes and cut into eighths lengthwise. Dry between towels and fry in deep fat. Drain on soft paper, sprinkle with salt and serve in an uncovered dish. The fat must not be too hot, as the potatoes must be cooked as well as browned.

For the Modern Kitchen

A four-line recipe that assumes you already know how to manage a kettle of fat. The one thing it does tell you — keep the fat moderate — is the hinge, and it is worth reading twice.

A Little History

Deep-fried potatoes reached American cookbooks through French practice — the name in English-language books of this era is usually "French fried" or simply "Saratoga chips" for the thin-sliced version, the latter often traced to the resorts of Saratoga Springs in the 1850s, though the story is traditional rather than documented. Household manuals of this kind were published by pattern and magazine companies for a readership cooking on coal or early gas ranges without thermometers, which is why the temperature guidance arrives as a description of behaviour rather than a number. Frying in a deep kettle of rendered fat was ordinary domestic technique at the time, since lard and suet were cheap by-products of household or butcher's meat.

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