The Butterick Cook Book

The pattern company's cookbook, 1911 — thirty-two chapters from appetizers to the fireless cooker.

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Baked Hamburg Steak

Finely chop one and one-half pounds of raw fresh meat; add two cups of bread soaked in milk, one small minced onion, salt, pepper and ginger to taste, and two eggs; then roll the mass into a square. Boil four eggs until hard, arrange them end to end across the middle of the meat, and roll the latter about them. Place the roll in a baking-pan, pour over it a sauce composed of tomatoes, onions, a large piece of butter and a little water, and bake, basting frequently. Slice the roll crosswise for serving.

HAMBURG STEAK (Broiled) - Have the butcher chop very fine two pounds of the round of beef, and a little suet. Press it into a flat steak about three-fourths of an inch thick, sprinkle with salt, pepper, a little onion juice, if liked, and flour, lay it in a fine wire broiler, and broil the same as beefsteak. Spread with butter and serve on a hot dish. This steak is sometimes shaped into small, thin, flat cakes and fried in a frying-pan, a little pork-fat or butter being used to keep the meat from sticking to the pan. A gravy is then made by thickening the juices in the pan, a little water being added before the thickening.

For the Modern Kitchen

Two related dishes in one entry: a stuffed meat roll baked in tomato sauce, and plain chopped steak either broiled or fried into cakes. Both are workable as written; the gaps are oven temperature, timing and the fat content of the meat.

A Little History

Hamburg steak is documented in American menus and cookbooks chiefly from the 1870s name generally traced to the port of Hamburg and the German emigrants who sailed from it, and it became standard household fare, valued for turning cheap round steak into something that ate like a chop. The baked version here, with hard-boiled eggs laid end to end so each slice shows a ring of yolk, is the same idea as the German falscher Hase, or mock hare, and the trick of concealing whole eggs in a forcemeat roll is older than either. Worth noting that this entry predates the hamburger sandwich's dominance: chopped beef is treated as a steak to be broiled and buttered, or as a roast to be sliced, and the little fried cakes are mentioned last, almost as an afterthought.

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