The Butterick Cook Book

The pattern company's cookbook, 1911 — thirty-two chapters from appetizers to the fireless cooker.

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Corned-Beef Hash

One pint of chopped beef; one pint of cooked potato; one tablespoon of butter; one-half cup of milk or water; salt and pepper. Chop the potato and the meat separately and rather fine, seasoning each when chopped. If the beef is very salt, do not add salt. Mix beef and potatoes together lightly. Pour the milk in a frying-pan with half the butter, and when warm, turn in the hash, spreading it evenly, and placing the rest of the butter, cut in pieces, on the top. Cover the pan, and place it where the hash will cook slowly for half an hour. There should then be a rich, thick crust on the bottom. Do not stir the hash. Fold it the same as an omelette, and place it on a warm platter. This slow process of heating the hash gives it a flavor that cannot be obtained by hurried cooking.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain, well-judged hash whose whole point is the crust. Everything else in the method exists to protect it.

A Little History

Hash is the household economy of the meat course made visible: corned beef was often bought or brined as a large piece, boiled, and the remainder chopped for the next morning. The word comes from the French hacher, to chop, and the dish was long familiar enough in English cookery that authors of the period explained not what it was but how to do it well. The Butterick Publishing Company, better known for dress patterns, also issued cook books aimed at the ordinary middle-class household, and this entry is characteristic: no novelty, just an argument for slow heat over a hurried pan. The corned beef itself reflects a period when brining beef was a common preservation method rather than a deli speciality, and a boiled corned brisket was among the cheaper ways to put a large joint on the table.

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