The Butterick Cook Book

The pattern company's cookbook, 1911 — thirty-two chapters from appetizers to the fireless cooker.

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Eggs in Ball Shape

Heat some lard as for fried cakes, and then stir it round and round with a stick until it whirls like a whirlpool; drop the eggs in one at a time; they will be formed into balls by the motion of the lard. Eggs may also be poached in balls by stirring the boiling water in the same way.

For the Modern Kitchen

Two techniques in three sentences: deep-frying an egg in a vortex of hot fat, and the same trick in water, which survives today as the standard way to poach. The whirlpool is the whole point — it wraps the white around the yolk before it can spread into rags.

A Little History

Deep-fried eggs of this kind belong to the French rather than the American habit -- French "fried eggs" were traditionally cooked in deep hot fat, as distinct from the American fried egg cooked flat in a little butter. The Butterick Cook Book, issued around 1911 by the pattern company that also published The Delineator, was aimed at a middle-class household cook expected to produce variety from cheap staples, and its chapter on egg dishes and omelets runs to a long list of entries. The whirlpool trick reads as a novelty here, but the second sentence is the one that lasted: swirling the water before dropping the egg is still taught as the way to get a compact poached egg, and it is the same physics -- the rotating liquid folds the loose white back onto itself instead of letting it stream away.

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