The Butterick Cook Book

The pattern company's cookbook, 1911 — thirty-two chapters from appetizers to the fireless cooker.

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Fig Filling

Mix one-half pound of figs chopped fine, one cup of sugar and one cup of water and boil in a double kettle until smooth and thick; then one teaspoon of vanilla. Boil the figs in water until tender before adding the sugar.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward fruit paste for layer cakes, with one bit of muddled sequencing in the original that is worth sorting out before you start.

A Little History

Fig fillings ran through American cake and cookie recipes from the 1880s onward, and their popularity tracked the arrival of cheap dried figs — Smyrna figs shipped from Turkey, and later California-grown fruit, though commercial California Smyrna (Calimyrna) production waited on the successful establishment of the caprifying wasp around the turn of the century. Readers would have recognized sweetened fig paste as a thrifty pantry option: no cream, no fresh fruit, no ice needed. Cake filling chapters of this period lean heavily on such boiled fruit pastes, which kept well in a household without reliable refrigeration.

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