The Butterick Cook Book

The pattern company's cookbook, 1911 — thirty-two chapters from appetizers to the fireless cooker.

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Fried Eggs

Use strained ham or bacon fat, or olive oil, as a frying medium, never butter or lard. When fat or oil is well heated in the frying-pan break in the eggs separately, putting in only one or two at a time, so that each may be kept separate. With a spoon baste each with the fat. Half a minute should be sufficient to allow for cooking.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

A basting method rather than a flipping one: hot fat spooned over the eggs sets the whites from above while the yolks stay soft. The instruction that matters is the temperature of the fat before the eggs go in.

A Little History

The insistence on ham fat or olive oil reflects a household in which bacon and ham drippings were a standing kitchen resource rather than something discarded. The basting technique, spooning hot fat over the top instead of turning the egg, is what American diners would later record as "basted" on the order pad, alongside sunny-side up and over easy. Olive oil appearing as an equal alternative in a mainstream American cookbook of this period is worth noting: it was still largely an imported specialty item, and it is often said to have been stocked by druggists as well as grocers.

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