The Butterick Cook Book

The pattern company's cookbook, 1911 — thirty-two chapters from appetizers to the fireless cooker.

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Rice Jelly

Mix enough water with two tablespoons of rice flour to make a thin paste, and then add one coffee-cup of boiling water. Sweeten to taste, and boil until the rice is transparent. If intended for a person suffering from intestinal trouble, boil it with a stick of cinnamon; if for a fever patient, add, when done, several drops of lemon juice.

Wet a mold with cold water, pour in the jelly, and when cold serve with milk and sugar.

WHEY-This is made with sweet milk and an acid. It contains the sugar, salt and other saline principals necessary for digestion and the repair of the mineral part of the body.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-ingredient starch gel from the sickroom chapter, closer to a thin blancmange than a set jelly. The whole thing hinges on cooking the starch long enough that it loses its raw chalkiness and turns glossy.

A Little History

Rice jelly belongs to a whole class of Victorian and Edwardian "invalid cookery" -- arrowroot, gruel, barley water, beef tea, calf's-foot jelly -- built on the belief that a sick or convalescent stomach could manage only bland, semi-liquid starch and extracted nourishment. Butterick, better known for dress patterns, published its cook book in 1911 for the same middle-class housekeeper who bought its magazines, and a chapter of sickroom dishes was standard: nursing at home was the norm, and the cook was expected to produce different food for the fever patient and the patient with "intestinal trouble" from the same basic paste. The nutritional reasoning attached to whey in the trailing lines -- saline principles for "the repair of the mineral part of the body" -- is characteristic of the era's confident but pre-vitamin understanding of diet, written a year before Casimir Funk coined the word "vitamine" in 1912, with isolation coming later still.

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