Waldorf Salad

A three-ingredient salad that depends almost entirely on how the apple is handled and how much dressing it carries. The 1911 version is dressed twice — once with French dressing, then finished with mayonnaise.

• ProportionsEqual volumes of apple and celery, plus a quarter that volume in walnuts. For four servings, roughly 2 cups apple, 2 cups celery and 1/2 cup walnuts.
• "Fine short strips"The original cut is julienne, not the large dice sold as Waldorf salad today. Matchsticks about 1/4 inch thick and an inch long keep apple and celery reading as one texture.
• Keeping the apple paleCut the apple last and toss it in the French dressing immediately; the acid checks browning. A firm tart-sweet variety — Braeburn, Honeycrisp, Cox — holds its shape better than a mealy one.
• "English walnut"Simply the common walnut, as distinguished from the American black walnut, which is far stronger and would dominate the dish. Toast them lightly if you like, though the period recipe does not.
• French dressingIn period usage this means a plain oil-and-vinegar dressing, commonly about three parts oil to one vinegar with salt and pepper — not the sweet orange bottled dressing sold under that name now.
• Two dressingsUse the French dressing sparingly as a coating, then spoon mayonnaise over the mounded salad on the lettuce rather than stirring it through. Mixed together the two turn the salad slack and greasy.
• TimingDress and serve within half an hour. Celery weeps and apple softens; a salad held overnight is a different, wetter dish.