The Cook Book of Left-Overs

What to do with left-over everything, 1911 — beef to cake, four hundred ways to use what the last meal left behind.

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Corn in Tomato Cases

Remove most of the pulp from six medium-sized tomatoes. Rub the inside of the cases with salt, pepper, and a little softened butter. Fill them with one cup of stewed corn mixed with one tablespoonful of grated cheese. Cover lightly with buttered crumbs, place in an agate pan, and bake until the cases are tender but not broken.

For the Modern Kitchen

A tidy way to use up a cup of yesterday's corn. The recipe assumes you know your oven, so the only real decisions left to you are heat, time, and how much moisture you let the tomatoes give off.

A Little History

Stuffed and baked tomato "cases" were a fixture of American cookery in the later nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, when tomatoes were plentiful in late summer and cooks were taught to treat a vegetable as an edible container. The framing matters as much as the dish: it belongs to the genre of thrift cookery that flourished in the decades either side of 1900, when middle-class households were being urged to account for every scrap of yesterday's dinner. A cup of stewed corn was not enough to serve on its own, but dressed with cheese and crumbs and set inside a fresh tomato it became a course. Grated cheese with a buttered crumb topping was a common finishing formula of the period, applied to scalloped potatoes, macaroni and creamed fish alike, and it did reliable work: browning, a little richness, and the appearance of intention.

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