The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie

A great Victorian hostess's private recipe collection, gathered from the cooks, ambassadors and country houses of a lifetime — never meant for publication, and published after her death exactly as she kept it, attributions and all.

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Moulds

pass it through a tammy into a basin, and let it get cold. Freeze it slightly first for 10 minutes, then add to it 1 pt. of whipped cream; freeze hard. Canned peach ice is done the same way.

Ice - "Biscuit Cream Ice." See Ice - Oatmeal.

Ice - "Biscuits glacés à la Richelieu." (Two Recipes.) No. 1. Cataldi breaks 6 yolks of egg into a basin and strains them through a tammy cloth; pounds some fresh pitachio nuts in a mortar, and as he pounds, drops a little cream on them that they may not turn to oil; sweetens with sugar cooked "à la plume" (stirred with a silver spoon); cooks the mixture, then adds the rest of ½ pt. cream; works it together; puts in paper cases and freezes.

No. 2. Francesco makes a strong coffee syrup, mixes it with 6 yolks of egg which have been passed through a tammy and then cooks it, but does not let it boil, then adds 1½ pt. of good cream; mixes well and ices in papers. Ice - Caramel Custard. 1 pt. of good custard of ½ milk, ½ cream, and 4 yolks of egg, with 3 or 4 pieces of sugar, stirred all together over the stove with a whisk till it thickens. At the same time ¼ lb. of sugar must be cooking with a teaspoonful of water in a sugar - burner to a gold colour.

Take the custard pan off and put the pan into cold water and strain in the burnt sugar and stir till all is mixed. Flavour slightly, if liked, with a tablespoonful of orange-flower water or rose water or rum. Make this in the morning, set aside, freeze in the afternoon in a freezer till wanted. 2 doz. sweet almonds must be blanched and peeled and cut across and parched (but not burnt) in the oven, to be scattered over the ice when dished. Ice - Chocolate Cream.

Make a custard of 6 yolks of egg to 1 oz. (i.e., 6 or 7 bits) of broken lump sugar and 1 pt. cold milk in which some chocolate has already been melted. Stir on the stove for about 5 minutes till thick (but do not let it boil). Then pass through a tammy and pour into a basin to get cold and mellow.

Do this after breakfast, and let it stand till after luncheon or even longer. First freeze alone 10 minutes; then add whipped cream; and freeze it again 1 hour. Ice - Coffee Syrup. (Turin.) This is the same as "Biscuits glacés à la Richelieu" - Francesco's recipe. Ice - Cranberry. (Auchentorlie. 1877.) Useful in winter.

Whip 1 pt. of double cream; add a small pot of cranberry jelly, a few drops of cochineal, and the juice of 1½ lemon.

Freeze in the usual way.

The jelly being sweet, no sugar is required.

Ice - Elder Flower Water, "Frontignac." (Lady Clark.) When elders are in flower gather them on a dry day. They should be in full but fresh blossom. Put the flowers in a preserving pan with sufficient water to cover them, and boil for ½ hour. Then strain through a fine sieve, or woollen bag, and let it stand. When cold put again in the pan, and allow 1/2 lb. of sugar for each pint of the flavoured water. Boil 10 minutes, skimming well all the time.

When cold, bottle for use, corking the bottles tight and sealing them down. For an ordinary shape of ice use a breakfastcupful of this syrup and make like any other ice, but use less sugar.

Ice - Melon Water.

Pulp the eating part of the fresh fruit through a hair sieve, and boil it. Take ½ lb. of sugar, make a syrup of it with water; boil and clear it. Add this to the pulped fruit with the juice of a lemon. Freeze it.

This ice is pretty served in the Melon rind.

Ice - Oatmeal. (Mrs. Jamieson, Auchentorlie. 1877.) ("Biscuit Cream Ice.") Sift some oatmeal through a hair sieve and so leave out the finely ground part, the rough grains only being used in making this ice; dry this rough oatmeal well in the oven; it should be almost crisp. Use 6 ozs. of meal to each pt. cream. Freeze in the usual way, and flavour as you prefer; they use orange-flower water at Auchentorlie.

Ice - Peach (Tinned). See Ice - Apricot.

Ice - Pineapple.

For pineapple ice use the same mixture as for Pineapple Cream (see Creams), but without gelatine, and use a freezing machine, or freeze in a pail of ice, working 2 hours; stir now and again till set; then leave till wanted. Ice Puddings. See Sweet Puddings.

Ice - Soufflés Iced. See Soufflés.

Ice - Strawberry. No. 1. (Mrs. Jamieson, Auchentorlie. 1876.) Pick fresh ripe strawberries, and put them in a jar; keep the dust off with muslin, stir now and then, and, when you squeeze out the juice, to each pint of juice allow ½ lb. of sugar. Put juice and sugar on the stove to come to the boil; skim well. Let this syrup get cold before you bottle it, and then cork it.

When you want to make the ice, mix a little sugar and some water with the syrup, and the juice of ½ lemon; then freeze it.

Ice - Strawberry. No. 2. See Strawberry Fool.

Ice - Wafers and Cakes. See Biscuits - Sweet, also Genoa Cake and Sponge Cake, all under Cakes, &c. "Iced Cups." See Soufflé - Frozen.

Irish Cheesecakes. See Cheesecakes - Almond.

Jelly - Apricot.

Put the apricots into an earthen jar with water. Allow 1 pt. of water to 2 doz. apricots. Place the jar in a pan of water, and let the apricots stew till they are quite soft. Press them first through a sieve, and then through muslin. Each pint of this will require a pound of sugar; boil the sugar to candy height, to clarify it, after which add apricot to sugar and boil them together for about 3 minutes. Put in a mould to set. Jelly - Claret. (I. Emslie. 1887.) Ingredients: 1½ ozs. gelatine, a bottle of light claret, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy, 4 allspice, 3 cloves, 4 whites of egg.

Soak the gelatine in a teacupful of warm water till dissolved, and add to the other ingredients. Whip 4 whites of egg in 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, and add this also. Put on the fire to come to the boil; then draw to one side and leave for 1 hour, with the cover on, and a live coal on the lid to draw up the scum; skim well first; then pass 3 or 4 times through a jelly - bag; pour into the mould, which should have been rinsed out in cold water and not dried; bury the mould in ice for 3 or 4 hours. Mrs. Wellington uses for a similar claret jelly 12 cloves, if small, and the same of allspice, a piece of cinnamon, the thin rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 3, and ³¼ lb. of whole lump sugar.

Jelly - Fruit. See Fresh Fruit Syrups, under Jams, Jellies, &c., to make this. Jelly - Maraschino. See Wine Jelly, No. 2.

Jelly - Noyau. See Wine Jelly, No. 2.

Jelly - Orange. No. 1. (Mrs. Thomas.) Soak from 12 to 2 ozs. of gelatine in just enough cold water to cover it ½ hour. Take 12 China and 2 Seville oranges, and squeeze their juice through a sieve into another basin.

Take 6 lumps of sugar, and rub them well on the rind of one of the Seville and 2 of the China oranges, the darkest-coloured ones you can find, that the jelly may be dark though clear, and add these 6 lumps of sugar to the juice. Make a syrup of ½ lb. or even 1 lb. of sugar, according to the sweetness of the oranges; 1 lb. sugar should dissolve in 2 wineglasses of cold water. When melted give it a boil up; skim it thoroughly, and use it to sweeten the jelly. When the gelatine has soaked, put it into a stewpan, pouring over it ½ pt. of boiling water, and add the whites of 2 eggs, and beat it well over the fire till it comes to the boil. Then it must be taken off and the juice poured into it. Cover close, and put it for 10 minutes by the side of the fire. Then pass it two or three times through the jelly - bag, and sweeten to taste with the syrup and last thing before it goes into the mould. Ornament the mould with pieces of orange if you like, but do not add anything else. [Mrs. Sherwood's "orange jelly" is nearly the same, but she uses 2 lemons instead of 2 Seville oranges, and rubs ½ lb. sugar on the best part of rind of 4 or 5 oranges and 2 lemons; she clears the jelly with 2 shells and whites of egg, and stands the jelly mould on ice for 2 hours.] Jelly - Orange. No. 2. (Bagshot. 1862.) Almost all juice. 15 China oranges; 1 lemon should the oranges be sour or 2 lemons if sweet. Rub the fruit clean; then peel half the oranges (choosing the dark ones), and both the lemons; put the peel in a stewpan, and just cover with 4 pt. of boiling water. Put the lid on close, and boil out all the flavour (15 to 20 minutes). Strain off the liquor for use, but do not press the peel. Throw the peel away. Now squeeze out all the juice from the oranges and lemons, and strain it.

Having previously dissolved 1½ oz. of gelatine in just enough warm water to cover it, add this to the juice, and add also the peel-flavoured water, and put all to boil together. When it comes to the boil, add from ½ lb. to ³¼ lb. of white sugar. Stir all the time till it has melted; then strain two or three times through a jelly-bag till it runs clear.

If wanted to be as clear as calf's foot jelly, add 2 raw whisked whites of egg before bringing to the boil, and run it many times through the jelly - bag. Pour into a quart mould. Put the lid on the mould, and bury it in ice for 3 or 4 hours. [Ruth Camp uses only 9 oranges and ¼ lb. sugar, and buries the mould in ice, or snow, for 8 hours.] Jelly - Raspberry.

Boil 1 oz. of isinglass in ½ pt. of spring water, 1½ pt. of currant wine. When the isinglass is dissolved, pour over it 1 lb. of preserved raspberries; let it boil a short time; then strain it through a sieve; sugar to your taste. When nearly cool, add ½ pt. of very thick cream, and pour it into a mould. Let it stand till next day. Jelly - Raspberry made from Raspberry Acid. See Jams and Jellies. Jelly - Rhubarb - Very Clear. (Mrs. Brinkler. 1883.) Do not spare the rhubarb, as the juice only is used. Stew the rhubarb in but little water, as it is in itself three parts water. Strain two or three times through a jelly - bag till the juice runs quite clear, and use 1 white of egg to clarify it. Add, for 1 qt. of jelly, ½ lb. of sugar, and 1½ ozs. of gelatine. If you want colour, add 3 drops of cochineal. If you bury the jelly in ice, use less gelatine. (1 oz. of gelatine very much iced is enough for a mould.) You pour the jelly into a ring mould and put it on the ice, and you fill the hollow centre of the jelly before serving, with Chantilly cream flavoured with pounded vanilla (see Italian Cream, No. 1, under Cream). (For stewed rhubarb, or for tarts, should the acid be objected to, first boil the rhubarb in water, and throw that water away; finish in fresh water, and do not sweeten the rhubarb till you use this second water.) Jelly - "Royal Jelly." (R.M. Beverley.) Boil 3 large glasses of the best Madeira, 1 tablespoonful of Cognac, 3 ozs. of sugar, and some cloves. When it has simmered, and all the sugar is melted, set it aside and keep it hot.

In another stewpan melt thoroughly 1 oz. of gelatine in 1 pt. of water. Add 3 wineglassfuls of cream and the yolks of 3 eggs.

Pour this into the heated wine; carefully add the juice of a lemon. Warm up, and stir about till thickened; but on no account allow it to boil. Strain through a sieve, put in a mould, but do not serve till cold.

Should more sugar be wanted, add according to your taste. Jelly - Rum. See Wine Jelly, No. 2.

Jelly - Sherry. No. 1. (Dr. Coombe.) Take 1½ ozs. of gelatine (in hot weather ³¼ oz. more), and pour 1 pt. of cold water over it; let it stand for 1 hour, and add 2 pts. of boiling water, which will soon dissolve it. When a little cooled, add 2 teacupfuls lump sugar, grated peel, and juice of lemon, 2 teacupfuls of sherry or of currant wine, a little pounded cloves, a few drops of essence of cinnamon, and 2 eggs, both yolks and whites, well beaten. Put all on a slow fire, and as soon as it boils take it off and pour it into the jelly - bag. Return it gently again and again into the bag until it be perfectly transparent, and then pour into the mould. By boiling the jelly longer it will be less stiff.

Jelly - Sherry. No. 2. (Mrs. Willis's recipe improved by Emslie. 1888.) Dissolve 1½ ozs. of gelatine in ½ pt. of cold water; add the rind of 3 lemons (or 4 if lemons are small) and 3 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice strained, also 1 pt. of water, and, if liked, 6 cloves and a bit of cinnamon 3 inches long, also 5 allspice, and the whites of 3 eggs and their shells, and 3/4 lb. of lump sugar.

Whip all over the fire till it boils; then draw quite to one side; put lid on, and on the lid a little live charcoal or a few live coals; leave them on it about 8 minutes to make the scum rise to top; then run the jelly through a bag two or three times till clear; turn it into a cook's basin.

When nearly cold, add ½ pt. of sweet brown sherry (use good sherry), also, if liked, 3 tablespoonfuls of brandy. The brandy should not taste in the jelly. You may leave out both brandy and spice, if you prefer.

Rinse a mould out in cold water; do not dry it; pour in the jelly, and put the mould into the refrigerator till wanted.

Jelly - Strawberry. See Strawberry Acid, under Jams, Jellies, &c. Jelly - "Whipped Jelly." (Mrs. Connyngham.) Take any jelly, calves' - foot, or orange, or Maraschino. Put it hot into a large bowl on ice and salt. When it is almost cold, whisk it to a thick froth; pour it very quickly into a mould, and set the mould on ice and salt till wanted to serve. Jelly - Wine. No. 1. (Birk Hall.) Half this will do.

Take 2 cow's heels; cut them up at the joints; put them in a well-covered pan on the fire with 4 qts. of water; keep the meat covered with water; leave them to simmer for 10 hours; then strain the liquor, and let it get cold. Next morning take off all the fat and put the liquor back into the stewpan, with the rind of 6 lemons peeled very thin, add their juice also, 2 lbs. sugar, and ¼ oz. cinnamon, also 6 cloves and 2 allspice. Boil all these things together about 10 minutes. Now whip up the whites of 4 eggs, and add them and their shells; boil 2 or 3 minutes; then draw to one side. Put hot coals on lid for 10 minutes. Then strain three or four times through a jelly - bag.

This quantity will fill 3 or 4 moulds; after pouring in the jelly add in each mould 1 wineglassful sherry, also 1 tablespoonful brandy; bury in ice 3 or 4 hours. You may require from ¼ oz to ½ oz. of gelatine, melted in water, added with the whites of egg and shells. [Isa. Emslie's wine jelly is very similar, but in that the ox heels, though scalded, are not skinned, and are left uncovered when put in the 4 qts. of water. They simmer for 8, instead of 10 hours. Of cloves she uses 2 instead of 6. She says: "If you boil 10 hours, the jelly is stiffer, but does not taste so well; and ox heels boiled only 8 hours do afterwards for stockpot."] Jelly - Wine, No. 2, or Noyau Jelly. (Mrs. Thomas.) 1 oz. of gelatine to ½ pt. of cold water. Leave it to swell 1½ hour; then add the juice of 2 lemons and their peel, ¼ lb. of sugar, the whites of 4 eggs, ½ tumbler of wine, and the same of water, also half a stick of cinnamon.

Whisk all thoroughly over the fire till it boils, but no longer; then let it simmer at one side of the stove, closely covered, 10 minutes; then pass two or three times through a bag till quite clear.

Have a mould rinsed out in cold water, ornamented with fruit, and buried in ice; fill it by degrees with the jelly.

If you wish for a Noyau, Maraschino, Rum, or fresh fruit jelly (made of fruit juice or syrup), omit both cinnamon and wine, and add the liquor or juice after passing the jelly through the bag and before it is poured into the mould. Jelly - Wine. No. 3. (Miss Holland.) To a "gang" of calves' feet, add 1 gallon of water; boil till reduced to 2 qts.; the whites of 8 eggs, and juice of 4 good lemons, nearly a bottle of Madeira (2 or 3 glasses may be omitted).

Take the rind of 1 lemon very finely pared; cover it up from the air that it may not turn black. Set on the stock to be quite boiling. Whilst it is getting hot, beat the whites of the eggs to a perfect froth, add the wine and 1 lb. of loaf sugar to the lemon juice; stir it well; do not put this into the stock, but pour the stock upon it, and strain. Now let the empty pan be cleaned, and while this is doing, keep stirring the liquor. Then pour all back into the clean pan, and give it a brisk boil for about a minute before pouring it into the mould; first putting the lemon peel into the mould into which the jelly is poured.

Junket. See Devonshire Junket. "Kisselle" See Cranberry. "Kugelhopf." * Butter a Baba mould, line it with bread - crumbs and ornament with peeled almonds. * Baroness von Deichmann tells me this is sometimes called "Guggelhopf" in South Germany, and a recipe for a somewhat similar cake called "Kouglaüff" is also to be found in "The Modern Cook" by C. E. Francatelli. For 3 lbs. of flour you will want ½ lb. butter, 2 pts. lukewarm milk, the rind of a lemon, some German yeast, some salt, 6 eggs, and sugar to taste. Take three-quarters of the flour and mix it with the yeast, milk and salt; stir round, and let it rise 2 hours in a basin. Then add the butter (melted), the eggs well beaten with a little rose - water. Add all the rest, and beat well till it will fall off the spoon quite soft. Then pour it into a mould, which it should half fill, to rise to the top in 2 hours. Paper the top. Bake 1 hour. "Kymac." See Cream. "Leche Crema." See Cream. "Louvre Baba." See Baba, No. 2.

Macaroni Timbale - Sweet. (Mrs. Jamieson. 1881.) 3 ozs. of macaroni boiled in milk, with a bit of fresh butter, till quite tender. Stir it to prevent its sticking to the pan. When enough cooked, take it from the stove and let it cool a little; then sweeten and flavour it to taste; add 2 yolks of egg and, at the last, the 2 whisked whites. Have a plain mould lined with short paste. Fill the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for ½ or 3/4 hour. "Macédoine." See Fruit Macédoine. "Matches." See Puffs, No. 1.

Meringue Mixture to cover Fruit in Glass Dish. (Mrs. Brinkler.) 3 whites of egg stiffly whisked, ½ lb. castor sugar put through a fine hair sieve. Mix the sugar in gradually with a whisk till all is light and creamy, then put a paper in the baking sheet with a little powdering of sugar on it; slip the meringue on to this and powder its top with sugar; bake in a slowish oven till a good coffee colour. Then put it on the fruit and place it in the meat-screen a 14 hour to keep warm and to fix it to the stewed fruit to cover it completely.

Meringue. See "Portman Meringue" and Strawberry Meringue. Mincemeat. No. 1.

A very old recipe, and good.

Boil 3 whole lemons until quite tender, in very little water, just enough to cover them. Take out the pips only, and chop up the whole fruit finely, pulp and all. Add 2 lbs. of chopped raisins, 1 lb. of chopped sultanas, 2 lbs. of currants, 2 lbs. chopped beef suet, 2 lbs. sifted sugar, ½ lb. chopped candied peel, 1½ oz. of mixed sweet spice, 2 ozs. of brown sugar, 8 apples chopped very small; mix the juice of 1½ a lemon squeezed into 1/2 pt. of brandy, with 3/4 pt. of old port wine. Put enough of this to make the mincemeat moist; cover it tightly, and in 10 days stir it well and remoisten it with more of the lemon-juice, &c.; do this twice before it is used; cover it from the air, and keep it in a warm place till wanted. Mincemeat. No. 2. (Barbara, Lady Clark.) 2 lbs. good beef suet; 2½ lbs. good baking apples; 2½ lbs. loaf or brown sugar; 3 lbs. currants; 3 lbs. raisins; the suet and apples to be chopped very small, and the raisins and currants to be well washed, picked, and stoned; 1¼ oz. mace; ¼ oz. cinnamon; ¼ oz. nutmeg; 8 cloves the spices should all be pounded together in a mortar to a fine powder; the juice of 6 and the grated rind of 3 lemons; 6 ozs. chopped candied orange and lemon peel, and a little citron peel; ³¼ pt. of good brandy; 1½ pt. raisin wine. Stir this all well together.

This makes a large quantity.

Mincemeat. No. 3. - Lemon. Excellent.

Ingredients: 2 lbs. of currants; 2 lbs. of "Sun raisins"; 2 lbs. of apples; 8 lemons, both juice and rinds; 2 ozs. of citron; 4 ozs. of candied lemon peel; 2 lbs. of beef suet, quite fresh and finely shred; a little cinnamon, sugar, brandy, and Madeira wine. "Mirlitons." See Soufflés. "Normandy Pippins." See Apples.

Nougat. (Cataldi.) 1 lb. sweet almonds blanched and sliced lengthways. Dry them in a slow oven. Put ³¼ lb. sugar by itself, with no water, into a sugar pan over the fire to melt; stir gently all the time, or it will spoil by getting lumpy; when it has quite melted, add the almonds, and mix all well together. Let it be gold-coloured, not brown. Have quite ready a plain, round mould, which must have been well oiled with fresh olive oil (butter does not answer in making Nougat); line the sides and bottom of the mould quickly with the hot Nougat mixture, and press it down evenly everywhere with a lemon. Fill with Italian Cream, No. 1 (see Creams) at the last moment before serving. If the Nougat should stick to the mould when you want to turn it out, plunge it two-thirds of its depth in warm water, then wipe the outside, and the Nougat will come out.

Noyau Jelly. See Wine Jelly, No. 2. "Nudels." No. 1. (Miss "Paula" Schuster. 1885.) Stir up 1d. worth of German yeast in a teacupful of milk, and then pour it into the middle of 1lb. of flour; stir it all up, and put to rise (as sponge) in a warm place out of all draughts, just as if it were for rolls; after that you mix it to a smooth mass with 1½ pt. milk, ¼ lb. butter, 1 egg, and a little sugar, mixing all well together. These all must rise again (as dough).

Next roll with a rolling-pin, and cut out into small cakes with a little tin or teacup. These cakes must be placed on a tin tray with sides to it, or in a pan, and have boiling milk poured on them; then the pan or tray must be put into the oven for about 10 minutes, that they may boil from the bottom and bake from the top. Use Custard Sauce No. 1 - German, with this dish (see Sweet Sauces). "Nudels." No. 2. "Dampf Nudeln," Steamed. (Mrs. Emslie. 1896.) 1/2 oz. of German yeast; 2 ozs. of flour; a pinch of sugar, 1½ pt. of tepid milk and water (equal, half and half). It should rise for 1 hour in the meat-screen, not too hot a part. Have ready in a basin ½ lb. of flour; work in 2 ozs. of butter, 1½ oz. of sugar, 2 whole eggs. To this add the yeast &c., and work for 5 minutes into a stiff dough. Put it to rise for 1½ hours in a warm place. When ready, take out, put on the slab, and knead into small rolls. Then put these into a deep sauté pan, to rise again for another ½ hour, when they will be ready to put in the oven. Pour over and round the "nudels" 1 pt. of boiling milk, and bake for 20 minutes. When ready to serve, dust them over with sugar, and salamander them.

Serve with vanilla - flavoured sugar and this custard sauce: For Sauce: 2 yolks of egg, ½ pt. milk, 1 oz. of vanilla-flavoured sugar. Whip all together over the fire for 10 minutes, and serve in a sauce-boat. "Nudels." No. 3. - Munich. Steamed. (Miss Hoffman.) Take 1 lb. of fine flour, and warm it thoroughly before the fire in a basin before making the paste. When warmed, strew over it a pinch of salt and a good teaspoonful of white sugar, more would make it heavy. Mix salt and sugar well into the flour, and then make it into a paste (as if for rolls) with German yeast and lukewarm milk. You must judge yourself of the strength of the yeast, putting as much as common rolls require (the German recipe says 2 dessertspoonfuls). Mix all well, and stir especially carefully round the edge of the basin. Cover the basin with a cloth or a paper, and put it before the fire to rise gently. Put it to rise 2 full hours before dinner. When it has risen well, warm the pastry board, and strew it over with flour. Take up small round pieces of the mixture very carefully with a tin spoon, and place them on the board; then put the board before the fire, that the "nudels" may rise again. Meantime melt a good-sized piece of fresh butter in a pot that has a tight-fitting cover. Add some powdered sugar and then milk to the depth of ½ inch (not more), and let butter, sugar, and milk boil up once. At the moment of boiling put the "nudels" carefully in. Take care not to put them too close together, and cover them up close at once. They must cook very slowly till nearly done, and should then be browned over a sharp fire. Look at them once (or even twice) for a moment, and, when all the milk is sucked up, run a clean skewer into one of the "nudels." Should any paste stick to the skewer, they are not cooked enough, and more warm milk must be poured in at the side (not upon, but round, the nudels); then the cover of the pot is put on as quickly as possible.

The "nudels" should be very brown on the under-side, and served on a hot dish, any scrapings of the pot (ugly, but the best tasted of all!) being served under them. Custard Sauce, same as for "Nudels," No. 2, served in the sauce - boat with them. "Nudels." No. 4. - Kissingen. Baked.

These are baked in the oven. The mixture is like Munich steam "nudels," but a little butter is added, also the whole of a raw egg, well beaten and mixed with the rest (2 eggs if many "nudels" are to be made). This mixture should be very light, and put to rise in the basin for as long as that for the steam "nudels." Then put spoonfuls of it in rows into a well - buttered baking tin, or mould (not a baking sheet), space being left for them to spread sideways as well as in height.

The baking tin is then put into the oven till all the "nudels" are brown and crisp. They will have joined together in the oven and must be divided with the hand, just like loaves of baker's household bread, then piled on a dish on which there is a clean warm napkin.

Serve in boat the same vanilla sauce as in the recipe for Nudels, No. 2, or with Custard Sauce No. 2, see Sweet Sauces.

These Kissingen "Nudels" are much less troublesome than steamed "Nudels" and much better. "Œufs à la Neige." see Snow Eggs.

Orange Fool.

Take a pint of cream, beat 3 eggs well into it, and add the juice of 6 sweet oranges and the grated rind of a Seville orange; sugar to your taste, stir all well over the fire till it thickens.

Orange Salad. (Pauline Guizot.) This salad is good with wild duck. "Coupez par tranches des oranges très mûres, couvrez-les de sucre des deux côtés et ensuite arrosez lentement avec du rhum ou de la bonne eau-de-vie, laissez-les reposer trois au quatres heures avant de les manger."

Oranges - Mrs. Steel's. (1878.) These are carefully - peeled whole oranges with no white left on them, in thick, rich orange-flavoured syrup.

They are simmered in a strong syrup and, when nearly cold, masked with white sugar candy or white crystallised sugar and served cold.

Oranges. See Cream, Flummery, Fritters, Jelly, Soufflés, Sponges; also Apple and Orange Sandwiches and Chartreuse. "Pain de Fraises." See Strawberry Shape. "Pain Gâté." (J. Emslie. 1894.) Made with our own tin bread,* rather stale. Use crumb only, no crust. Cut slices of any shape ½ inch thick; put them to soak in cold milk previously sweetened and flavoured to taste with orange - flower water or pounded vanilla or lemon rind. Turn each piece over carefully the whole time they soak, then drain them. Have ready on a plate the well - beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Dip both sides of the drained pieces of bread into the egg in their turn. Have ready a little very fresh best butter, which has been clarified, and fry them in it quickly but not too brown. Sprinkle with vanilla - flavoured castor sugar, and dish with a dab of sieved apricot jam or damson jelly in centre of each, or pile one on another on a napkin or a hot dish, with more vanilla - flavoured sugar over all.

The fritters should be a browny gold and served and eaten at once, hot; standing spoils them.

Begin to make them only 12 hour before dinner.

If made of baker's porous "French rolls," 5 to 10 minutes' milk-soaking will be enough.

Pancakes. No. 1. Bate. (1882.) 3 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of crushed ratafia, 3 ozs. castor sugar, a little salt, 3 eggs, ½ pt. milk, the grated rind of a lemon or a little pounded vanilla. Work this well together in the morning to blend for late dinner.

At cooking time add 14 pt. of whipped cream. Fry quickly in clarified butter, and serve up hot with apricot jam rolled up in each. Serve Apricot Sauce round (see Sweet Sauces) or plain cream in a boat. Keep any pancakes that are left to make a "George IV pudding" next day (see Sweet Puddings).

Pancakes. No. 2. Emslie's. (1889.) 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, the grated rind of a lemon, 1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar, all mixed in a basin; 2 whole eggs beaten in, 1 at a time. Work all together in the morning, and leave to stand and blend till wanted; then mix in half a teacupful of cream, and the same of new milk; if all milk, the pancakes would be tough. Butter an omelet pan and put in 2 tablespoonfuls at a time to cook; turn each pancake over with a palette knife (one turning should do); when the pancake is done, turn it on to the warm lid of a stewpan, on the stove; dust it over with sugar and give it a squeeze of lemon - juice; roll it up and put it in a hot enamel dish in oven to keep hot whilst you do the others; pile the pancakes on this enamel dish, dust again with sugar, and serve. * Probably "Tin Loaves," see Bread, which is also a recipe of Emslie's. The omelet pan must be rebuttered for each pancake, as you only do one at a time. (Mrs. Jamieson makes savoury pancakes with salt, and rolls them up with a little dressed cheese preparation, powdering cheese on the outside as they do in Rome.) Pancake. No. 3. French.

The yolks of 3 eggs, well beaten, 1 tablespoonful of flour, the same of marmalade; mix well together with a little new milk. Just before putting it into the oven whisk the whites of the 3 eggs well and add them to the other ingredients. Put it into a tin and bake it in a quick oven for 1½ hour.

Pancakes. No. 4. French. (Two recipes.) (a) Mrs. Brinkler's: 3 whole eggs whisked together, ¼ pt. of new milk, ¼ pt. of cream, 2 ozs. of pounded white sugar, and the grated rind of a lemon. Mix all together like a custard.

Butter small saucers and pour in the mixture like thin pancakes; bake 20 or 30 minutes in a slack oven.

Have a dish ready very warm and slip on to it one pancake over another, putting a little apricot or other jam or pounded vanilla between each. Layers of pancake and jam alternately.

It looks like a pudding turned out of a mould. At table it is cut through like cake. Plain cream is handed with it for sauce.

This recipe makes lighter pancakes from having no flour. To caramel the top of the pancakes sprinkle a teaspoonful of sugar on the top and salamander them. (b) Mrs. Backhouse's Middleton French pancakes are served same way as Mrs. Brinkler's, but made as follows:

Take 5 eggs and beat the yolks and whites separately; keep them apart. Beat a tablespoonful of flour into a ¼ pt. of cream. Add ½ oz. of loaf sugar and the grated rind of a lemon, then the well-beaten yolks of the 5 eggs - lastly, add the 5 beaten whites.

Pancakes. No. 5. Harding's. ¼ lb. of flour, 1 egg, ¼ pt. milk (1½ pt. milk for thinner pancakes). Put the flour in a clean basin and mix in the milk slowly, that there may be no lumps. Break in the egg and mix it well in.

Melt about 1 oz. of fresh lard in a little stewpan; put 1 tablespoonful of it into the frying pan and grease the sides and bottom of the pan well, then return lard to stewpan and keep it hot for the second pancake.

A spoonful of the pancake mixture cooked in this larded frying pan makes 1 pancake; when the underside has browned toss the pancake over with a fork to brown the other. When done, powder it over with sugar, roll it quickly, and dish on a warm napkin. Again grease the frying pan as above, and make a second pancake; send up (1 pancake for each person), and let a second supply follow at once, that they may be served very hot. Hand pounded sugar and a lemon cut in two to squeeze over them, with the pancakes.

Pancakes. No. 6. "Royal." (From Nice.) Use 3 eggs and milk, instead of cream - otherwise they are mixed like ordinary pancakes. They must be rather larger than a saucer, very thin, and are fried in an omelet pan greased with salad oil. They are rolled up like pancakes, and have a preserved apricot or a little apricot jam put inside each when rolled. Pancakes - For Savoury Pancakes, see Pancakes, No. 2. Peaches Stewed.

Divide in half and stone as many peaches as the dish requires; peel them and put them inside uppermost in a stewpan with a syrup prepared from peel and kernels; let them stew gently till sufficiently soft, but not long enough to break them. Take them carefully out, keeping the inside uppermost; pile them like saucers on a dish, and put their blanched kernels on them or put a cherry - coloured ratafia drop where the stone was. Boil and skim the syrup again if necessary to make it clear, and serve it with the peaches. The peaches must be cooked less than for a preserve. Pear Chartreuse. (Fox Warren.) Stew 6 pears in a syrup of ½ lb. of sugar to ½ pt. of water, with the juice and the grated rind of a lemon, a pinch of cinnamon and 4 cloves; also 6 drops of cochineal if desired.

Rub all through a fine wire sieve, "set" it with ½ oz. of gelatine; put it into a hollow mould, and do not serve till next day.

You can put iced whipped cream powdered with vanilla - flavoured sugar in centre. Pear Fool. See Pears - Tinned.

Pears - Stewed. No. 1. (Beechwood.) Take 1 lb. of pounded loaf sugar, put to it 1 qt. of water, clarify, and boil it to a syrup, then take it off the fire, and when it is almost cold put in peeled half pears, on their flat sides, at the bottom of stewpan; cover them with a lid of foolscap paper, shaped to the size of the pan; cut any little brown specks from the peel, then lay the peel on the top of the paper lid and cover so close that no steam can escape from the stewpan. Put it on a slow fire and stew them gently about 6 hours, giving them now and then a shake in the pan.

When you find the liquor wasting put in some boiling water (two or three times while stewing); they must stew some hours before coming to a fine colour. When the pears are red and the syrup clear, have ready a fine fresh lemon, thinly pared; put in the parings and also the juice of the lemon, and give all a quick boiling; then take the pears off the fire and put paper on them till they are cold. They will (so covered) keep some weeks if you put them into a jar, pour the strained syrup over and tie parchment over them, but may be refreshed by giving the syrup a boil up. The best eating pears have more flavour when cooked than the best stewing pears. Pears - Stewed. No. 2.

Use fresh fruit. The large pears answer best if to be got, but they can only be procured early in the winter. Take 6 of the longest, peel them as thin as possible, and cut in half longways, core them and put each in water as finished, to prevent their turning brown. Then stew them.

Pears - Stewed. No. 3. (Learney. 1878.) Put the whole pears on the fire with cold water, parboil them till sufficiently cooked to admit of their being peeled with very little help from a knife, letting them cool in the process.

Weigh the skinned pears, and take the same weight in refined sugar to make the syrup; they are cooked same as Stewed Pears, No. 1; add, if liked, a little cochineal to colour.

Pears - Tinned. (1890.) This recipe is for white Californian pears in tins, but most tinned pears now-a-days are soft enough when opened to require no extra boiling. Open the tin and taste the syrup; if it is fresh and tastes of pears, not of tin, use it with the fruit, as it helps the flavour.

Put the fruit on in 1 pt. of water and put the lid of the pan on; let it first come to the boil, then draw to one side, simmer very gently till soft, about ³¼ of an hour, covered all the time, then lift the pears into a clean dish, without the water, add ½ lb. of sugar to the water in the pan, also some thin strips of fresh lemon peel; do not cover, but let it now boil till reduced to half, boiling all the time; then strain over the pears, and let all cool together; leave no lemon peel on when dished. Garnish with preserved cherries.

These pears can reappear next day as "Pear fool," for which they are passed through a sieve and creamed. You can vary this so: Melt 1 oz. of gelatine and strain it; mix it into the pear squash, and pour into a mould. Bury in ice some hours. Some add 3 beaten - up whites of egg; then it is more like a sponge. These pears are also good in jelly.

Pears - "Tonbridge Pears" for Dessert. 3 lbs. of large Jargonelle pears picked before they are yellow, 7 lbs. of sugar. Clarify the sugar, adding 4 pts. of water and whites of 3 eggs for syrup. Peel pears and take cores out at the broad end, leaving the stalks on. Lay them in the syrup and let them simmer awhile. Take pan off, let them stand a day or two, and then boil them till they are clear. "Petits Choux à la Vanille." (I. Emslie. 1891.) Round and hollow, and almonded at top. 1½ pt. of cold water, and in it 2 ozs. of butter and a teaspoonful of vanilla - flavoured sugar. Put on uncovered to come to the boil, then add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of flour and mix over the stove to a smooth paste using a wooden spoon. Take off the stove, and add 3 eggs, 1 at a time, working each well in. You must beat batter till very light. Butter a baking sheet, and press a dessertspoonful at a time through a paper funnel on to it.

Bake, and when done glaze with white of egg, and scatter the top over with pieces of parched almonds, blanched, and peeled and cut across. Custard Sauce, No. 2, in a boat, or whipped cream is served with them. If you serve cold add a teacupful of well-whipped cream. You may use a Chocolate Custard Sauce if you prefer it (see Sweet Sauces, for both these sauces).

These "Petits choux" if made with cheese, do for a savoury. Another kind of "Petits choux" will be found under Soufflé - Chocolate. "Petits Pains de Turin." (Cataldi.) Melt 2 ozs. butter in a basin. Take wooden spoon and measure into the butter 3 spoonfuls of sugar and 6 spoonfuls of flour. Add the grated rind of a lemon and 2 eggs, both yolk and white. Mix all well together; if the paste is too stiff, add more egg; if too thin, add more flour.

Work the paste on a pastry board, shape them into miniature rolls (oval, 1½ ins. long, with a nick lengthways in the middle); egg them over, and bake in the oven. Plum Nest. (R. M. Beverley.) The nest is made by stewing a proper quantity of Carolina rice, gently, in milk for 3/4 hour, stirring it all the time. 3 Flavour it whilst doing this with vanilla or bitter almonds. When taken off the fire stir into the rice some fresh butter and sifted sugar, stirring till both are melted.

Take the best Imperials (not prunes), stew them, with lump sugar, in equal parts of Whitwell's extra green ginger wine (this ginger wine is made in Yorkshire) and sherry. Add a dessertspoonful of brandy just before you take them off the fire and a squeeze of lemon. Dish the rice with a hole in centre, and place in it the stewed plums, like eggs in a nest. "Portman Meringue." See Strawberry Meringue.

Portuguese Cream. See Cream.

Prunes - "Bordeaux Plums," Stewed. (Mrs. Sherwood.) A luncheon dish.

Soak ½ lb. of Prunes 1 hour in cold water. Then put them on in the same water over a gentle fire to simmer 1 hour uncovered, do not let it boil. At the end of the hour add ¼ lb. lump sugar and the thin peel of half a lemon and let all simmer ¼ hour more. Then take out and dish the plums; add a spoonful of sherry to the syrup, skim and reduce it and strain it over the prunes to get cold. Prunes - "Elvas Plums," Stewed. (Birk Hall.) Soak 1 lb. of green Elvas plums 1 hour in cold water, drain them, put them on the fire with 2 qts. fresh water quite cold; simmer fully 2 hours very gently. A quarter of an hour before taking the prunes off add ½ lb. sugar to make the syrup. Serve cold in the syrup thus made.

Real prunes must soak 2 hours. "Pistoles" plums cook in 1 hour, and do not require swelling in cold water; they are less rich and very good, and have no stones. Prunes in a Mould. (Auchentorlie.) Swell 1 lb. prunes for 1 hour or more in cold water; stew them till tender, then stone them and put them into a plain mould. Add ³¼ lb. of isinglass to the liquid the prunes were stewed in, also a glass of white wine, a spoonful of red currant jelly, and a little sugar. Mix all well and pour into the mould.

Puffs. No. 1. "Allumettes," i.e., "Matches," or "Royal" Puffs. (Cataldi.) To be handed round with cream.

Take some trimmings of "Feuilletage" puff - paste (Cataldi's, see Paste and Pastry) and roll them as thin as a shilling; then make it up again ½ inch thick. Have ready some "glace royale" (which is merely white of egg and sugar), and spread it over the top of the pastry as thin as you can. Then cut pastry in pieces about 3 inches long and a third of an inch wide, and bake.

Puffs. No. 2. Apricot, are excellent when fresh baked, make of "Feuilletage" paste (Cataldi's, see Paste and Pastry), quite plain, or with apricot jam, as "sandwiches" with raw edges. For a variety you may cover the tops with white of egg and sugar, to fix almonds, filberts or pistachios cut across in thick pieces (not sliced) on top. Crisp the almonds first in oven to improve the flavour.

The simple "Feuilletage" puffs are, however, best of all, Lady Clark says. Puffs. No. 3. Batter. (Mrs. Sherwood.) Put ½ pt. of milk on to boil, with 3 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of sugar, and a pinch of salt. When it boils, stir in 5 ozs. of flour quickly, and mix 2 or 3 minutes over the fire. Take it off and let it cool a little, then stir in 3 whole eggs. Form the puffs oval or round, on a baking sheet, squeezing batter through paper funnel. Egg them over, and shake on to them 2 ozs. of chopped sweet almonds. You must bake the puffs in rather a quick oven and not open it till they are done (15 minutes or so) or they will be sodden. Serve cold in pairs, with apricot jam between, sandwich fashion. Puffs. No. 4. Dutch. (1883.) This quantity is only enough for 2 people. To a good tablespoonful of flour in a pan, add 3 large tablespoonfuls of milk and 1½ pats of butter; mix all well over the fire and boil; stir till it is a stiff paste. Then take it off and let it cool, and beat in a whole egg; beat with a wooden spoon. Put one teaspoonful on each greased patty pan. Bake from 15 to 20 minutes in the oven. Dish on a napkin and put jam on the top of each. You can meringue over the jam if wished, and brown it in the oven, but I do not advise this.

Another way is to brush the baked puffs over with yolk of egg, and scatter chopped pistachios or chopped filberts previously parched in oven, over the top. In both these latter cases, serve whipped cream, sweetened and flavoured, with the puffs. Puffs. No. 5. German. 2 ozs. blanched almonds cut fine, 2 ozs. loaf sugar, 1 tablespoonful flour, 1½ pt. new milk or a little cream, 3 eggs, leaving out 1 white. Butter some cups, pour in the mixture, and bake.

This will make 6 puffs.

Puffs. No. 6. Heathcroft. (1895.) These are almost as small as a half-crown - very short crust. ¼ lb. fresh butter to 5 ozs. of flour. Mix well together, add a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar and a pinch of Yeatman's "dried yeast" or of any baking powder. Make a hole in centre, drop in a yolk of egg mixed in a tablespoonful of water. Mix all lightly into a paste and roll out. Double and roll again, three times in all. Butter some saucer-shaped tartlet pans of a small size, line with the paste cut to size, and fill them with dry rice to make them keep their shape. Bake in a moderately brisk oven. When baked, remove the rice, and fill half the number of baked short - crust saucers with black currant jam; put an empty short crust saucer over each one that has jam, and unite the two with white of egg. Dust their tops over with powdered sugar after giving them a touch of white of egg.

Bake say 10 minutes in a slow oven. Serve on a napkin, to eat fresh. Any jam does, but the paste being sweet and short the black currant suits this dish remarkably well.

Puffs. No. 7. Baked. (Mrs. Coltman. 1879.) Beat up 2 eggs with 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, adding 2 ozs. of butter melted. Mix all well with the milk to a thick creamy consistency. Half fill well-buttered teacups, and bake. Turn out.

Serve with jam inside, and sift sugar over before serving. They look like baked apple dumplings, and are crisp. Puffs. No. 8.

These are good and uncommon; they look like sweet sandwiches, and must be roughed at top with almonds cut across and browned in the oven; if out of almonds, rough the tops with vermicelli. 2 ozs. of sweet Jordan almonds, and only two bitter almonds to flavour, 2 ozs. of fresh butter, 2 ozs. of sifted sugar, 1 egg (both yolk and white), the grated rind of a lemon. All these are to be pounded well together and thoroughly well mixed. Spread the mixture on a sheet of puff-paste (see "Feuilletage," under Paste and Pastry), and bake, then cut into sandwiches (long shape, not square).

Rhubarb - Stewed. See Rhubarb, under Jellies.

Rhubarb Tart.

Serve flavoured custard and Italian Cream No. 1 (see Cream), half and half, with Rhubarb Tart.

Rice - Caramel. (Miss "Paula" Schuster.) About ¼ lb. sugar must be put into a saucepan with just enough water to cover the sugar; cook quickly till it has browned; it is then put into the oiled mould or cake-tin which is to be used; turn it about till the burnt sugar covers the bottom and sides lining the mould with sugar as it were. Put mould aside till wanted. Now soak ½ lb. of Carolina rice in hot water for about 10 minutes, drain off the water and put the rice into 2 pts. of boiling milk, and cook it slowly but thoroughly, then leave it to cool.

Six yolks of egg, ½ lb. sugar, and some pounded vanilla must now be well stirred together for 1 hour, then the rice, which must be all but cold, has to be mixed in - the whites (all 6) must be beaten to a froth by themselves, then lightly mixed in thoroughly, and all quickly put into the mould. The mould to go into a saucepan in which must be just enough water to go half-way up the mould; the saucepan to go into the oven or into the bain - marie for 1½ hour. Serve Custard Sauce No. 1 - German, with this dish (see Sweet Sauces).

Rice - Creamed. (Mrs. Sydney Buxton.) This is same recipe as Rice Pudding No. 4 (see Sweet Puddings). Rice - Ground Rice Flummery.

To serve with plain cream and preserved fruit. ¼ lb. of ground rice, boiled slowly in 1 qt. of new milk, with a little lemon peel, cut very thin, and a few bitter almonds (6 at the most) cut very small, and less than ¼ lb. of loaf sugar; stir it all the time it is on the fire, and when it is all but stiff pour it into a mould to stand all night.

Rice - Ground Rice Pyramids. (Beechwood.) 2 ozs. of ground rice, 2 ozs. sifted sugar, 2 bitter almonds, and 1 oz. of sweet almonds; boil all in 1 pt. of good milk till rather solid; press it very closely down into long wineglasses, let them stand all night, then turn out into a dish; lay custard or plain cream at the bottom of the dish, and add preserve between the pyramids. Rice - Ground Rice Shape. No. 1.

Boil 1 pt. of milk with sugar to taste - add gradually ¼ lb. of ground rice - keep stirring it for 10 minutes, then take it off the fire. Add a little gelatine and allow it to get cold. Have ½ pt. of cream ready, whipped firm; mix it with the rice, pour into a mould and keep cool. N.B. - The white of an egg whipped with the cream lightens the cream much.

Use a hollow mould, put stewed fruit in the centre, and ice this dish a little. Rice - Ground Rice Shape. No. 2. (Mrs. Frank Coltman.) 4 ozs. of ground rice put into a stewpan with 2 ozs. of fresh butter and a few drops of essence of almonds or cinnamon, vanilla, or grated peel, add 1 qt. of milk. Boil 15 to 20 minutes, and stir constantly till it is a smooth substance, though not too thick. Then pour it into a previously oiled mould and do not turn out till quite cold. It will turn out like jelly. The rice should be done too much rather than too little. What is left bakes well in a pie-dish with 3 yolks of egg beaten into it, and 2 of the whites whipped to froth and mixed lightly in at the last. When half baked and just browned, paper it to prevent being too brown, and finish baking. [Mrs. Wellington makes a ground rice shape a little differently. She first boils the milk, then adds sugar and flavouring, next the butter to melt in it a minute; the ground rice, which has meanwhile been smoothly well mixed in 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, is then added to boil 20 minutes on the stove, stirred all the time, poured into a mould to cool, and later on buried in ice if liked not turned out till cold.] Rice - Ground Rice Steamed, "Crème de Riz."

Put about 1 oz. ground rice in a stewpan, add a pt. of milk and boil till it is quite thick, stirring it all the time. Then add the yolks of 5 eggs, the grated rind of a lemon, and 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Beat up the 5 whites to a stiff froth and add them just before steaming. Pour into a mould, and steam ½ hour. Chocolate Sauce, No. 2, or Sabaglion Sauce (see Sweet Sauces) over it - colour the latter with cochineal. (For another "Crème de Riz"see Soufflés.) Rice - Heathcroft (Cold).

Wash the rice in 2 waters, then strain off the cold water and put the rice into boiling water - let there be plenty of water - let it boil about 20 minutes. Then put it into a sieve, pour fresh cold water through it, cover it and let it stand to drain - many cooks let it stand by the fire to dry it more thoroughly. When dry shake it out and let it stand to get cold. It should be snowy white - each grain separate and dry, yet quite cooked. Serve the rice piled on a warm napkin on the dish, and have a silver salver placed close to it, on which is a jug of cream and a dish of apricot or strawberry jam. Rice Pears, "Croquettes de Riz."

To make a large dishful, take about 6 tablespoonfuls of rice cooked as for a pudding; sweeten it and flavour it, add the yolks of 5 or 6 eggs and the whites of 2. Mix well and reduce it over a sharp fire till it becomes thick, then put it on one side until cold. When cold, shape the rice like small pears. Egg and bread - crumb each "pear" and fry them; put an angelica stalk at the narrow end and a currant at the broad end outside, having already inserted a little strawberry or apricot jam at the broad end. Range the "pears" round in a circle on the dish, standing up on their broad ends. Serve plain cream or custard sauce with them.

Rice Shape.

Put a teacupful of well-washed Carolina rice on the fire with 1 qt. of milk to come to the boil, lid on the pan. Then draw the pan to the side of the fire to stay there till the rice is soft (2 or 3 hours), lid still on. Add a teacupful of warm milk from time to time if the rice, in swelling, dries.

Flavour with a little pounded vanilla in castor sugar, added when you draw the rice to the side of the fire; if you have no vanilla, put in the rind of a fresh lemon you take it out before moulding the rice - and stir in 4 ozs. of sugar to melt and mix; but use no lemon if you use vanilla.

Rinse out a basin or a mould in cold water. Give the rice a stir round before you put it in, you can use small moulds for a party, as more "dressy." Put the hot rice in quickly, pressing it in with a spoon. Put mould into a stewpan with hot water, if you want to keep it warm, or if in summer put the mould into ice till wanted; you can use a hollow mould with apricots or stewed Elvas plums in centre, if liked. When you turn out the rice, warm a cutter, and with it make a hole in the top of the rice, and put apricot jam or damson jelly as a finish. Hand plain cream sauce, or failing that, a custard.

Rice Volcano. (R. M. Beverley.) Take 6 ozs. of well-washed Carolina rice and a stick of vanilla 2 ins. long, and boil both together in milk for ³¼ hour put in but little milk at first, but add more by degrees as fast as it dries - stir with a wooden spoon the whole time; it must not be left unstirred for half a minute, nor must it boil violently; the goodness of the pudding depends upon your attention to these two points.

At the end of the ³¼ hour the milk should have dried up, at any rate the rice should not be sloshy.

Now it is time to stir in a small piece of butter and some lumps of white sugar; stir on till the sugar and butter have melted and blended, then take out the vanilla stick, put a jam pot on a dish, pour rice all round (not over) the pot, smoothing it with a spoon into a comely appearance, giving it as much as may be the appearance of the cone of a volcano.

When the rice is nearly cold remove the pot very carefully so as not to disturb the rice. Put preserved apricots with their syrup into the hollow left by the cup in the rice, and then pour over the whole a flood of rich custard or plain cream. If you like, ornament the dish with macaroons. (Apricot jam will not do for this dish - the fruit must be whole.) Rice Wall.

Put a teacupful of well-washed Carolina rice into a stewpan with cold water to cover it, put it on the fire and let it come to the boil, then strain the water from the rice, add 1 pt. of milk to the rice, then put the stewpan at a further distance from the fire and let it simmer, with a small piece of cinnamon and the rind of a lemon, no sugar. After it has simmered for 2 hours it will require about another pt. of milk put in gradually. Then let it boil for 10 minutes, stirring all the time; a tablespoonful of sugar is added, merely to boil up or it makes the mixture scorch; by this time the rice should be well cooked and quite stiff; put the rice into a mould just rinsed out in cold water and not dried. If in summer, bury the mould in ice. At dinner - time turn out, and serve with any kind of stewed fruit.

This can be eaten either hot or cold.

A similar recipe and a useful dish is to make a stiff flat - topped rice border with some stewed pears on top, and Devonshire cream in centre. (Lady Hobhouse. 1880.) Lady Holland's Rice Puddings (see Sweet Puddings) are made of this mixture. She adds a "tiny bit of fresh butter," and at the last a little vanilla - flavoured cream. "Röde Gröde." (Mrs. Forster, Reinacharn. 1875.) 1 pt. fresh or bottled fruit, 1 pt. of water; let it boil for an hour and strain. Sweeten and flavour with vanilla; to each pt. of juice allow 2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot or of cornflour, mixed in a little cold water; add to juice, and boil 15 minutes. Pour into a shape. Serve with whipped cream and almonds, like tipsy cake. (If you use raspberries you will require 3 pts. of fruit.) * "Round Tower." See "Croqu'en bouche." "Royal" Puffs. See Puffs, No. 1.

Sago Shape. (Mrs. Russell.) Set water on to boil; scatter small sago in and let it boil till done; stir. Take half a pot of strawberry jam or of currant jelly, and pass it through a tammy or sieve; then at once mix with the cooked sago; sugar to your taste. Add also a little vanilla and, if wished, a drop or so of cochineal; put all into a mould to get cold; turn out; then scoop a hollow in the top of the cold shape and fill it with whipped cream, sweetened and flavoured with vanilla. Serve whipped cream as sauce.

Sago Stewed, for Luncheon. (Miss Duckworth.) Use large kind of sago. Take a teacupful of it and steep 3 hours in water (if you use the small kind 2 hours will do); drain off the water, and put the sago into a stewpan with 1 pt. of milk; stew it slowly 3/4 hour; stir it every now and then, to prevent a skin from forming at the top. Have boiling milk ready, in another pan, to add if the sago should become too thick.

It may be put through a sieve if wished, and should look, when served to table, as if made with rich cream. Serve apricot or strawberry jam in a glass dish with it, and thin plain cream in a jug. "Savarin." See "Baba."

Savarin Cake. No. 1. (Mrs. Caswell. 1882.) 1½ lb. flour, 2 ozs. butter, 3 whole eggs, 1½ oz. German yeast, dissolved and strained, 1 oz. of sugar. Mixed slack with warm water or milk or honeycomb. Put into a buttered tin, half full, and let it rise to top of tin, then bake. When baked, scoop a hollow in centre and fill with stiff whipped cream, sweetened and flavoured with vanilla. The butler before handing it cuts the Savarin cake as you would a melon. Each helping is a wedge of this light bread - cake and some cream beside it, on the plate. This Savarin can also be served with Rum Sauce, No. 2. (see Sweet Sauces), in a boat. Savarin Cake. No. 2. Cataldi's "Gâteau Savarin."

A dish of the "Baba" family. See Baba for similar recipes. Begin at 1 o'clock or soon after, if you dine at 7 or 7.30 - it should rise 4 or 5 hours. 1 lb. flour in a basin, worked into ¼ lb. butter, ¼ lb. sugar, ¼ pt. warm milk, and 1 oz. German yeast dissolved in 1½ teacupful of warm milk and water and strained. Let it rise like sponge. Then break in 4 eggs one after another; beat all for 10 minutes, it should be as thick as pancake mixture.

You have already buttered a hollow mould and lined it with peeled and sliced almonds; pour in the mixture till half full, and set it before the fire till it rises to the top of the mould; bake in a quick oven. While it bakes prepare the following sauce: * Röde Gröde (? a Scandinavian dish). A similar recipe is known in Germany, and very popular, as "Rothe Grütze," where it is made with ground rice or sago.

For Sauce*: Make 1½ pt. syrup of sugar and water, 2 tablespoonfuls sherry, the same of port and of brandy, and 1 or 2 of noyau, 1 only of maraschino, the juice of an orange; mix well together. As soon as the Savarin is out of the oven, pour half the hot sauce over it as it lies on the silver dish, let it soak, then pour the second half, also hot, over it when about to serve.

Some prefer to let the cake cool before adding sauce, but the sauce should always be hot.

Enough of the Savarin mixture will be left to make a Baba for a picnic or luncheon, with sultanas and candied peel added. The top to be iced with sugar flavoured with vanilla or coffee or lemon. If you wish a rich Baba, give double quantity each of butter and sugar to make it. This picnic Baba requires no sauce. Scalded Cream. See Cream - Scalded, under Cream.

Semolina for Luncheon. (Emslie. 1888.) More than 1 pt. of fresh milk, 1½ ozs. of butter; put on to boil together; stir well; then scatter in 2 tablespoonfuls of semolina, just as you scatter oatmeal in making porridge, and let it boil on about 5 minutes; then cover and draw to one side to simmer 20 minutes; add 1 teaspoonful sugar, and, if wished, flavour with grated lemon peel, but we prefer to have prunes, or pears, or green Elvas plums stewed, to eat with it and no flavouring, the fruit being in another dish.

To make a steamed pudding the semolina so cooked requires eggs added when it has cooled.

Snow Cheese. See Cream - Italian Cream, No. 2.

Snow Eggs, "Œufs à la Neige."

Whip up the whites of 4 eggs to a stiff froth, then add some sugar; mix these well together.

Then have ready a stewpan with boiling milk, into which you put a stick of vanilla. Shape the meringue paste with a tablespoon into flat ovals, and when the milk is boiling let them cook gently in it about 5 minutes. Then dry the meringue ovals on a cloth and dish them; when cold they should look like eggs, made of snow, and are served floating on the following custard sauce:

For the Sauce: Put the 4 yolks of the eggs into a saucepan with 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar; stir the whole together until it becomes white. Next add some of the vanillaflavoured milk in which the whites of egg were cooked. Cook it till it becomes thick, taking care the yolks do not boil. When cold, put in the dish and the "snow eggs" on it. (Caswell, 1882, puts the meringue mixture into a buttered, sugared mould to simmer, not boil; it is troublesome but lovely, and never seen elsewhere. Serve sauce round.) Soufflé - Almond or "Crème Meringuée." (Miss Temple-Bowdoin.) Infuse in 1 pt. of new milk the very thin rind of a lemon with 2 or 3 bitter almonds bruised. As the quantity should not be reduced, it should be kept by the side of the fire till strongly flavoured, and not be allowed to boil for more than 2 or 3 minutes. Sweeten it with 3 ozs. of lump sugar, and when this is dissolved, strain it - then mix the milk with ½ pt. of cream. Stir the whole gradually in to the well-beaten yolks of 6 new-laid eggs and thicken it like boiled custard. * This recipe for Wine Sauce, No. 2 - under Sweet Sauces. When quite cold, put it into a soufflé dish, and beat the 6 whites of egg in a basin to a solid froth, mix them with 5 tablespoonfuls of pounded and sifted sugar, and spread them evenly over the custard. Set the dish immediately in a moderate oven and bake ½ an hour. Serve in a silver dish directly it is taken out of the oven. Soufflé - Apple. Three ways. (Mrs. Weston.) (a) Make a custard of 4 or 5 eggs. Mix the eggs with rather more than ½ pt. of milk. Add a little sugar, then put it in a soufflé dish to bake. Have ready some apples which have been stewed very tender in a syrup made of about 1½ pt. of water to ½ lb of sugar. The quantity of syrup must of course depend on the number and size of the apples. When the custard is baked, put over it a layer of apples, and cover these over with meringue mixture, then put it in the oven to set, and ornament the dish with red currant jelly or apricot jelly. (b) Flavour and stew the apples to a stiff marmalade. Put them on a dish and pour custard over - then whip the whites for the top, sift sugar over, and brown in oven. (c) The Beechwood version is this; Make first a very rich apple sauce flavoured with grated lemon peel, and sweetened. Cover with rice stewed in cream, or new milk, also flavoured with lemon peel and sweetened; and spread over with a meringue of froth of white of egg with a little sifted sugar; ornament with apricot jam; sift sugar over all, and bake.

Soufflé - Apricot. 4 sponge biscuits broken small to cover the bottom of a dish, a layer of apricot jam spread over the biscuits, thin cream warmed or new milk, to be poured over all. Beat the whites of as many eggs as you require to a stiff froth and lay on as for any other soufflé; sift fine sugar over all and brown in the oven. Soufflé - Arrowroot. No. 1. Baked. (Wootton.) Mix 1 oz. of arrowroot with a little cold milk. Pour ½ pt. new milk, boiling, over it. Let it stand to grow cool. Then add the beaten-up yolks of 3 eggs, and about 3 tablespoonfuls of well-sweetened stewed apples.

Beat up the 3 whites separately on a plate with a knife to a stiff froth. Mix all up together and put it into a pie-dish.

Bake about 20 minutes in rather a quick oven.

Soufflé - Arrowroot. No. 2. Steamed. (Mrs. Bate.) Melt 1 oz. butter in a stewpan, and mix smooth with it 2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot; add gradually 1 pt. cold milk, sugar to taste, and the grated rind of a fresh lemon. Stir till it boils, then take it off, and add the yolks of 4 eggs (or beat the eggs with orange-flower water to flavour instead of using lemon); and later on add the wellwhipped-up 4 whites. Pour into a well-buttered hollow mould, close over, and steam ½ hour gently. Serve any nice sauce in a boat with this.

Soufflé - Brandy. (Mr. Taton.) 10 yolks of egg stirred over the fire in a stewpan with 2 spoonfuls of sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, a grate of nutmeg, and ½ pt. brandy. Stir till nearly set, then, having previously beaten the 10 whites to a stiff froth, add half of them and stir them in very gently over the fire.

Put the mixture in soufflé tin and add the rest of the whites over the top. Smooth with a spoon, and dredge sifted sugar over.

Soufflé - Chocolate.

First make this chocolate mixture: Soak ½ cake of chocolate in boiling water for 1 hour; blend a little cold milk with a tablespoonful of flour. Have ready 1 pt. thin cream, boiled; mix 2 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar with the chocolate, then add the flour and milk and cream; let it boil, and pass through a tammy or sieve. Then make some "petits choux" by boiling a teacupful of water and a piece of butter as large as a nutmeg; when it boils, put in flour to make a thick paste, stir it till quite smooth, then stir in 1 fresh egg, then another.

Have ready a baking sheet well buttered, and drop this paste on it in small bits, and bake them in a hot oven 10 minutes. Cut out the bottom of each, fill in with chocolate mixture, put them into a soufflé dish or baking dish. Pour in the rest of the chocolate mixture, shake over a little powdered sugar, bake ½ an hour, and serve hot. Soufflé - Coffee. (Orchardleigh.) Have a cupful of strong coffee, made of 4 tablespoonfuls of ground coffee; put this in a stewpan; when boiling, add 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, and ¼ oz. of butter, beat it with a wooden spoon for 10 minutes; withdraw it from the fire, and, when cool, add 2 yolks of egg, and 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar; whip the 2 whites to a stiff froth, and add them to the batter, just before it is put into the mould; steam for 1½ hours, taking great care that the water does not boil, or the dish will be spoilt. No sauce needed. Soufflé - Dr. Hoffmann's Small Soufflés.

Put ½ pt. of milk and 2 ozs. of butter on the fire.

When it boils, add ½ pt. of flour, and stir it till it comes off the sides of the pan. Let it cool; add 4 eggs and a little sugar, and beat till it is quite smooth. Flour a baking tin, and put teaspoonfuls of this mixture on the tin, leaving a little space between each (for each teaspoonful is a pudding). Glaze the tops with egg and sugar flavoured with vanilla. The oven must not be too hot. They should rise quite high in the oven.

Serve with fruit juice, or custard, or cream flavoured with coffee. Soufflé - Frozen. (Mrs. Whyte of Barrow Hill.) Make a very rich custard; add to it some finely - pounded sweet almonds, and flavour with a wineglassful of noyau; cook all together on a very gentle fire, taking the greatest care it does not boil; stir the whole time, for smoothness should be its great merit; take it off when it adheres to the spoon, and pass it through a sieve. Before putting it to freeze, add a handful of macaroons, powdered and rubbed through a sieve.

Freeze the whole. It must not be stiff - only about as thick as batter. Put a layer of the frozen custard into the soufflé dish, then a layer of whipped cream, sweetened and flavoured with pounded vanilla but not frozen, over it another layer of frozen custard, then a second layer of whipped cream, and so on till the dish is full. Cover with whipped cream to stand high, and slightly brown it by dredging over it some pounded macaroons; or for a variety make it green with chopped pistachios. For a small party you can use the same mixture for "Iced cups" by filling little round fluted paper cups with the iced custard as made from Frozen soufflé, and dredging macaroons over if you are short of cream, but if you keep cows and get plenty of cream, or live in town and can buy it, fill the paper cups above the custard with frozen vanilla cream, and put 3 strawberries at the top of each cup. Soufflé - Ground Rice or "Soufflé de Crème de Riz." (Cataldi.) Quickly made and very little trouble.

Take 2 yolks of egg with about 2 ozs. sugar; beat them well with a little lemon peel grated or essence of lemon; then add 2 teaspoonfuls of ground rice. Having beaten 5 whites of egg by themselves to a stiff froth, mix them well in and bake. Serve in a silver soufflé dish. (See another "Crème de Riz," Ground Rice Steamed, under Rice.) Soufflé - Iced. No. 1, with Fruits in Maraschino. (Devonshire Place.) The yolks of 10 eggs and ½ lb. of fine sugar, well beaten for ¼ of an hour. The whites of the 10 eggs well beaten to a stiff froth. 1 pt. of cream beaten stiff.

These ought to be done at the same time (but separately), as otherwise one falls while another is being beaten. Mix the whole together lightly, but do not beat any more, and have ready a soufflé dish with a paper round it, oiled. Pour in the mixture and freeze, and, when quite frozen, take out a small piece from the centre with a spoon; fill it quickly with preserved fruits previously soaked in maraschino; replace a bit of the ice soufflé to cover the hole; sprinkle pounded ratafia over the top, and serve. Soufflé - Iced. No. 2. "Soufflé glacé à la Vanille." (Devonshire Place.) Fifteen yolks of egg, ½ lb. of pounded sugar, ½ pt. of water, 1 stick of vanilla pounded and passed through sieve, 1 glass of best brandy, ¼ pt. of cream whipped stiff, also 2 ozs. of ratafias pounded and browned to sprinkle over the top at the last. Put the eggs, sugar, water, brandy and vanilla in a large basin or bowl; place it over a stewpan of hot water, and whip all well till it becomes quite warm and about the substance of sponge-cake batter; then whip it on the ice till perfectly cold, gently stir in the cream, previously whipped stiff, then pour it into soufflé dish which is previously tied round with cartridge paper about the same height as a baked soufflé would be. Place in an "ice cave" and set it in ice about 6 hours before dinner. About 1 hour before dinner, drain the water off from the tub carefully, and cover the "cave" again with more ice and salt; when you want to take the paper off, do it by running a hot table knife round the paper. Lastly sprinkle ratafia over the top and serve. You can, instead of brandy, flavour with tea, coffee, chocolate, liqueurs, orange or lemon, as you think proper; if flavoured with tea or coffee use ½ pt. of either instead of the ½ pt. of water mentioned at the beginning of the recipe, but you must make it very strong.

Soufflé - Iced. No. 3. "À la Walter Scott."

Ingredients: 1 pt. of syrup, 15 yolks of egg, ½ pt. of curaçao and half that quantity each of orange - flower water and orange juice, 1½ pt. of double cream whipped. Prepare as an ordinary ice soufflé, only take care that it is not too liquid as there is so much liquid in the flavouring of this one.

Soufflé - Iced. No. 4. Lemon. (Lady Holland.) Take 2 ozs. of fresh butter, the yolks of 12 eggs, the rind of 3 lemons and the juice of 2.

Stir all over the fire with a wooden spoon, sweetening to your taste; stir on till it gets thick like custard, but take great care it does not boil. Let it then get quite cold. Now whisk the 12 whites up quite stiff in a separate basin in a gentle heat and mix them with the cold custard; put the mixture into a silver soufflé dish and place in "ice cave" 3 or 4 hours.

Soufflé - Lemon, Steamed. (Beechwood.) Best done over a charcoal fire. 1 pt. of milk with 2 spoonfuls of flour put into it and stirred till it boils; 4 eggs, the yolks put in the milk as soon as it is taken off the fire, the whites to be beaten up stiff and added when it is cold. Put it into a small mould with the rind of 2 lemons, and steam it about 1 hour.

If you omit the lemon peel, and flavour the mixture with vanilla instead, you may serve Chocolate Sauce with this soufflé. (See Sweet Sauces.) Soufflé - Marmalade. (Mrs. E. Emslie. 1897.) 4 ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. butter, 2 ozs. sugar, 3 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of marmalade. Mix the flour, sugar and butter with a little milk, and stir it over the fire until it boils; lift the saucepan off the fire, then add the yolks of egg and marmalade; the whites, after they are well beaten, are added at the last.

Bake in rather a hot oven.

Soufflé - "Mirlitons." (Recipe from the convent, for small soufflés.) The yolk of 1 egg to 1 tablespoonful of cream, and a few drops of orange-flower water, for each "mirliton."

Sweeten the cream and orange-flower water to taste.

Beat the flavoured cream alone; beat the yolks of the eggs alone; put both together and bake in little paper cases, like coffee cups in shape, or in little tins of the same shape, lined with puff-paste, like very deep cheesecakes.

They soon fall with cooling, so must be eaten hot and at once. Soufflé - Orange. No. 1.

This requires 3 oranges in the height of the season, but if they are only coming on, or if they are going off, you should use 4.

Take a thin slice of butter, 1½ tablespoonfuls of flour, a teacupful of milk, and the rind of 3 oranges rubbed on lump sugar - use the common China orange. Boil the mixture till it thickens, stirring it well at the time to prevent it from getting lumpy.

When thick, take it off the fire; break in the yolks of 4 eggs, and mix all thoroughly together. You may leave it in that state for hours.

When the soufflé is wanted, whip up the whites of 5 eggs to a very stiff froth and mix them in lightly with the other ingredients; then put all into the mould and set it in a pan of water on the fire, taking care that the water rises less than half-way up the outside of the mould, and that the mould itself does not touch the bottom of the pan. Three-quarters of an hour will steam it.

For Sauce: The sauce served with it is the juice of 5 more China oranges strained and sweetened with white sugar, then boiled 5 or 6 minutes. (Do not flavour the soufflé itself with orange juice or it will be heavy.) Soufflé - Orange. No. 2.

Squeeze 12 oranges, but first rub off the rind on lump sugar, add the sugar to the juice and 1½ ozs. isinglass dissolved in water. Whisk this orange jelly till quite thick. Take 1 pt. of it, mix with it 1 pt. of cream previously sweetened and whipped by itself. 4 more oranges must now be cut into tiny pieces (no white) and laid in sugar for 1½ hour, then mixed well with the mixed whipped jelly and whipped cream. Let it chill well in ice. Put it lightly into a soufflé dish and see that the bits of orange are evenly distributed through the soufflé. Powder with sugar before serving.

This mixture makes "Orange cream" if turned out of a mould. Soufflé - Orange Flower. (Bate. 1873.) Weigh 5 eggs in their shells and take their weight in sugar. Break the yolks into a clean basin. Put the whites by themselves into a second basin and whisk them to a stiff froth. Stir the yolks with a wooden spoon for full 20 minutes, adding the sugar gradually and a good dessertspoonful of orange - flower water. Then add the whites very carefully. You must use a flat dish, not a silver soufflé dish, for this latter is too deep. The dish must be one not to suffer from going into the oven. Butter the inside well and also put a paper band to it 3 ins. high, before pouring in the mixture, which must only three-quarter fill dish, as it will rise to the top of the dish when in a moderate oven. Before putting into the oven, sprinkle some well - pounded ratafias over the top. Serve quickly. Hand very stiff "Schaum Sauce" (see Sweet Sauces) with it. Soufflé - Semolina, Baked.

A teacupful of semolina stirred in 1 qt. of milk (no lid), sweetened and flavoured. When cool, add 3 yolks of egg, and 3 whipped up whites at the last. Moderate oven. Bake 34 of an hour.

Soufflé - Strawberry. No. 1. or "Styrian Soufflé." (Mrs. Weston.) (To use up whites of egg.) Beat the whites of 4 eggs to a froth. Put this froth into an earthen pan with 2 ozs. of castor sugar. Mix this gently, then add ½ lb. of strawberry jam to flavour it. Put it into a well-buttered soufflé dish. Stir it well up and let it bake nearly an hour in an equal temperature. Serve in a silver soufflé dish as soon as it is ready, as it falls immediately. Soufflé - Strawberry. No. 2.

First a custard of 3 yolks of egg with milk and sugar. Put it in a soufflé dish in the oven to set. Whip the three whites to a strong froth with 3 spoonfuls of sugar and a little strawberry jam. Put the rest of the jam over the custard, and meringue mixture over all. Bake 1 hour in a moderate oven.

Soufflé - Tapioca.

Soak a tablespoonful of tapioca in water for a couple of hours, set it to boil, adding powdered loaf sugar to taste, and milk, till the mixture is of the consistency of porridge; flavour it with grated lemon peel, work in when cold the yolks of 3 and the whites of 4 or 5 eggs whisked to a stiff froth; then pour quickly into a soufflé dish, and bake till it has well risen. Serve immediately.

Soufflé - Tapioca. No. 2. (Beechwood.) ¼ lb. of tapioca well washed, put into a stewpan with a pt. of cream or new milk, some lemon peel and sugar,. Let it boil till it comes to a custard. Put it to cool, then add the yolks of 4 eggs. Put it into a pie - dish and have it very lightly baked. Whip the whites of the eggs up very lightly; put them on the top of the soufflé after it is baked and brown them with a salamander.

Sponge - Apricot.

Dissolve gelatine as for blanc-mange, in water. Mix with the fruit and syrup, adding water if wanted. Whisk all together in a bowl till it thickens, then put in mould and leave to set.

Sponge - Arrowroot. (Louvre Hotel at Rome. 1877.) Ingredients: The juice of 2 lemons, the thin rind of one, rubbed on 6 ozs. of roughly broken lump sugar, 2 yolks of egg well beaten, 2 whites whisked to a froth, ¼ oz. gelatine melted in a little water, 1 dessertspoonful of arrowroot carefully mixed in a little cold water.

First dissolve the lemon - flavoured sugar over the fire in 1 pt. of cold water; it should then boil for a few minutes. Then add the prepared arrowroot. Take it off the fire and wait till it has cooled, then add the 2 beaten yolks of egg, and cook again for a minute to take off the raw taste of egg - too great heat makes it curdle. Add lemon juice, and, when cooled, the liquid gelatine and the frothed whites of egg - mixing them in lightly. Pour all into a mould which has been rinsed in water, but not dried, as it turns out better from a wet mould. Bury the mould in ice, or use more gelatine. For its reappearance next day: Mix the remains of the sponge with whipped cream and add ½ teaspoonful of dissolved gelatine if necessary; whisk all lightly together, fill dariole moulds with it, and set them in ice.

Sponge - Lemon or Orange. (Mrs. Wellington and Mrs. Fordyce Buchan. 1880.) Soak ½ oz. gelatine for 1½ hour, in 1 pt. of cold water. Then add ½ pt. of boiling water, let it again come to the boil, add ½ lb. loaf sugar with the rind of 4 lemons or oranges rubbed on it (but orange sponge would want half the sugar only), add the juice of the fruit also; all to dissolve and come to the boil as if for jelly; then strain it into a large basin to cool.

Add the well-whipped whites of 2 or 3 eggs and whisk all stiff together 1 hour till white. Pour into a rinsed mould and bury in ice 2 or 3 hours. Sponge - Lemon Caramel. (Emslie. 1896.) For the Caramel: ¼ lb. sugar put on with tablespoonful of water in the sugar-boiler to reduce quickly to caramel, then line the sides and bottom of a plain mould with it, and keep turning it about until set, that it may completely line the mould. For the Sponge: Soak 1½ oz. gelatine in ½ pt. of cold water with the rind of a lemon, the juice of half a one, and ¼ lb. of sugar. Allow all to stand for 1½ hour, then boil up for 10 minutes, strain into a basin and, when quite cold but not set, add the whites of 3 stiffly-whipped eggs. Pour into the mould you have already prepared with caramel. Custard for Sauce: Take the yolks of the 3 eggs, mix them with a teacupful of milk and 3 drops of essence of lemon, and a teaspoonful of sugar. Put into a bain-marie. Whip all for about 10 minutes over the fire and pour cold round the caramel when served. Sponge - Orange. No. 1. (Mrs. Stubbington.) Dissolve 1 oz. of gelatine in ½ pt. boiling water and leave it to cool. Then strain and add to it the juice of 4 sweet oranges with a clarified syrup made of 10 ozs. of sugar. Whisk it up to a sponge, put it into a mould and let it stand till wanted. Sponge - Orange. No. 2. (Ruth Dowden.) 1 oz. of gelatine dissolved in 1 pt. of boiling water, strained, and allowed to stand till nearly cold - mix with it the juice of 6 oranges and of 1 lemon. Add the whites of 3 whisked eggs and sugar to taste, rubbed on orange peel. Whisk the whole together till it looks light and like a sponge.

Put it into a mould and place it on ice till set - then you can turn it out. Garnish this dish with "pigs" of seedless orange sweetened.

In Italy a little chopped candied orange peel is scattered through the sponge mixture. Stone Cream. See Cream.

Strawberry Compote. See Apricot Compote.

Strawberry Fool.

With a spoon bruise 1½ lb. of ripe strawberries through a sieve. Whip 1½ pt. of cream, add the fruit and 2 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar (reduce with milk if you are wise enough to prefer the Fool thin).

This without milk and frozen, is a good recipe for Strawberry ice. For another Strawberry Fool, see Strawberry Shape, No. 2.

Strawberries fresh-scalded for Luncheon. (As at Beverley. 1880.) Make a strong syrup, proportion 1 lb. of sugar to 1 pt. of water. Clear it, and when ready and boiling, put in the strawberries. Take up one with a spoon and feel it soft, it must not be a mush; when soft they are done; serve cold in syrup. If for a Macédoine, the strawberries must not be put into the syrup when it is on the fire, only after the syrup has much cooled.

Strawberry Meringue or "Portman Meringue" (a very pretty dish for dinner when Strawberries are in season).

This is a very large meringue baked in the oven; put fresh strawberries, powdered with sugar, at the bottom, then iced, vanilla - flavoured Chantilly cream (see Cream Italian Cream, No. 1), then more sweetened strawberries, and so on till the meringue is full.

Strawberries preserved whole for Dessert. (Lady Rycroft.) Marked "Excellent" by Lady Clark. See Preserved Fruits for recipe and for how to use these as a sweet dish.

Strawberry Shape. No. 1. "Pain de Fraises." (Mrs. Jamieson, Auchentorlie. 1876.) Take a pt. of fresh ripe strawberries, pass them through a fine hair sieve into a basin. Have ready melted 1 oz. gelatine and 2 ozs. sugar; stir it into the strawberries if necessary, colour with a few drops of cochineal. Keep on stirring till it is cold, then pour into a hollow mould, and fill centre with plain cream ice with a few very ripe scarlet strawberries at top of ice, or fill centre with whipped cream, flavoured and sweetened.

Keep it cool, or put into ice till wanted.

This does with many other fruits and ices (with melon, for instance). Strawberry Shape. No. 2. "Pain de Fraises." (As Emslie does it. 1888.) First pass 3 pts. of ripe, fresh strawberries through a fine sieve to make a purée. Make a syrup of ½ lb. lump sugar to ½ pt. of cold water; let it come to the boil and go on boiling till reduced to half; let it cool.

Put 1½ ozs. of gelatine into enough cold water to cover it; add 2 tablespoonfuls of the strawberry purée and melt gelatine, &c., over warm water in the bain - marie and strain it; add enough of the syrup you made (cold) to sweeten the remainder of the strawberry mash, then mix in the gelatine and strain into the mould; keep in a cool place till wanted.

To make next day into Fool for luncheon, pass the remains of the "Pain de Fraises" through a sieve, and add cream.

Strawberry Roll.

Take ½ lb. of very fresh beef suet and 1 oz. less of flour; add a pinch of salt. Mix and roll it out thin.

You will require 1 lb. of strawberry jam. Spread it on the paste and roll the jam and paste up, shaped like a bolster. Tie tightly, to prevent its breaking, in a cloth, the inside of which is floured, and tie each end with tape.

Plunge the roll into a pot in which the water is already boiling briskly. Put the lid on and let it cook about 1½ hours, the water boiling the whole time. Undo it with care, and see that the dish in which it goes to table is hot. Powder the roll with sugar when you dish it. If too dry, serve on a syrup sauce made of 2 tablespoonfuls of the same jam with which you filled the roll, and a dessertspoonful of water; let it come to the boil, then strain it into the dish. Strawberry Tart. See Tart - Strawberry.

Syllabub. No. 1. (Lady Clark.) Grate the rind of a lemon into a basin, squeeze the juice upon it, and add ½ a glass of orange wine or of sherry, the same of brandy, and sweeten to your taste with pounded and sifted sugar; pour upon it 2 or 3 pt. of cream and whip thoroughly for a short time before putting into the dish.

This syllabub may be made an hour or two before dinner. Syllabub. No. 2. (Mrs. W. Duckworth, Beechwood.) A pt. of cream, ³¼ pt. of raisin wine or less of brandy, ½ lb. sifted loaf sugar, the juice of 1 small lemon, and the rind pared very thin; whip all well together for half-an-hour the day before wanted, and put in a cool place.

Serve in a china punch - bowl and help with a ladle. Tart - Bread, "Brod Torte." Two ways. (Miss Weber. 1878.) (Remember in this recipe that a German lb. is about an oz. heavier than an English lb.) (a) Pound ½ lb. of sweet almonds with a little rose-water, add 4 ozs. of fine white bread - crumbs, ³¼ lb. of sugar, ½ oz. of powdered cinnamon, ¼ oz. of cloves, and a whole oz. of fine brown bread-crumbs, 1 oz. of candied citron cut small, and 2 ozs. of preserved ginger just taken out of its syrup. Beat 10 eggs well for 1½ hour, add a glass of wine, butter a mould, and line with bread-crumbs; put in the mixture and let it bake slowly. (b) Take 1 lb. of almonds peeled and pounded, ³¼ lb. sugar, and 6 ozs. of brown bread-crumbs well dried and rubbed fine.

Moisten these with a glass of wine; add the yolks of 18 eggs, ½ oz. of cinnamon, a little pounded clove, and the rind of a lemon.

Mix all well together, adding the well-beaten frothed whites of the eggs at the last. Bake slowly in a mould strewn with raspings of the crust of a fine roll. (Half these quantities make large enough tarts.) Tart - Custard for Fruit Tarts. See Custards.

Tart - "Frangipani."

First, for the custard or "Crème Pâtiserie," ¼ lb. butter, 1½ pt. cold milk, a grate of lemon peel, a tablespoonful or rather more of sugar, a dessertspoonful of arrowroot and the same quantity of flour, 3 yolks of egg, all mixed together and cooked till it thickens, then to be put into short crust on which is a layer of apricot jam; the paste must cover the custard completely, so that neither custard nor jam shows. Brush the top crust over with white of egg, and cover with sugar. Bake; serve on a napkin. Crushed ratafias improve the custard mixture.

For "Frangepan," see earlier.

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