The Dixie Cook-Book

“The best is none too good.” Southern family receipts gathered across generations and printed in Atlanta in 1883 — and, in the same volume, everything else a household was expected to know: the laundry, the sick-room, dressmaking, babies, and a year's bill of fare.

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Always Save

all the currants, skimmings, pieces, etc., left after making jelly, place in astone jar, cover with soft water previously boiled to purify it, let stand several days; in the meantime, take your apple peelings, without the cores, and put on in porcelain kettle, cover with water, boil twenty minutes, drain into a large stone jar; drain currants also into this jar, add all the rinsings from your molasses jugs, all dribs of syrups, etc., and when jar is full, drain off all that is clear into vinegar keg (where, of course, you have some good cider vinegar to start with). If not sweet enough, add brown sugar or molasses, cover the bung-hole with a piece of coarse netting, and set in the sun or by the kitchen stove. In making vinegar always remember to give it plenty of air, and it is better to have the cask or barrel (which should be of oak) only half full, so that the air may pass over as large a surface as possible. Vinegar must also have plenty of material, such as sugar, molasses, etc., to work upon. Never use alum or cream of tartar, as some advise, and never let your vinegar freeze. Paint your barrel or cask if you would have it durable. Company, sickness, or other circumstances may prevent making

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a method for turning jelly-making waste into vinegar over weeks, not a dish to be cooked in an afternoon. The whole thing hinges on giving Acetobacter the two things it needs: sugar to eat and constant air.

A Little History

Vinegar-making from kitchen fragments belonged to the same household logic as the rest of The Dixie Cook Book: little that contained sugar was allowed to leave the house unfermented. Currant jelly was a summer fixture, and the skimmings, crushed fruit and syrup-slicked jars it left behind were sugar in dilute form, as were apple peelings from putting up sauce and the last inch clinging to a molasses jug. Cider vinegar was the workhorse acid of the American kitchen, needed for pickles, catsups, sweet-sour dressings and a good many home remedies, and buying it by the barrel was an expense a thrifty household could avoid. The chemistry behind the crock had been worked out only a couple of decades before this was written — Pasteur's studies of acetic fermentation in the 1860s established that it is the work of living bacteria requiring air — but the practical rules the cook gives here, plenty of air, plenty of sugar, no freezing, a live starter, are precisely what that chemistry demands.

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