The Dixie Cook-Book

“The best is none too good.” Southern family receipts gathered across generations and printed in Atlanta in 1883 — and, in the same volume, everything else a household was expected to know: the laundry, the sick-room, dressmaking, babies, and a year's bill of fare.

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Sweet Pickles (Their season but they can be)

in their season, but they can be prepared very nicely at any time, by taking pear, peach, plum, or apple preserves, and pouring hot spiced vinegar over them; in a few days they will make a delightful relish. It very often happens in putting up cucumber pickles that you can only gather or buy a few at a time; these can be easily pickled in the following manner: Place in a jar, sprinkle with salt, in the proportion of a pint salt to a peck cucumbers, cover with boiling water, let stand twenty-four hours, drain, cover with fresh hot water; after another twenty-four hours, drain, place in a jar, and cover with cold, not very strong vinegar; continue to treat each mess in this manner, using the two jars, one for scalding and the other as a final receptacle for the pickles, until you have enough, when drain and cover with boiling cider vinegar, add spices, and in a few days they will be ready for use.

Never throw away even

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a fragment of a longer pickling entry, and it covers two different things: a shortcut sweet pickle made from finished preserves, and a running method for accumulating cucumber pickles a handful at a time. The second method is the problem.

A Little History

The Dixie Cook Book belongs to the family of compilations that grew out of Estelle Woods Wilcox's Buckeye Cookery, reworked in the 1880s for a Southern market, and its pickle chapter reflects a kitchen tied directly to a kitchen garden rather than a market. The running-jar method answers a practical problem: cucumbers do not ripen all at once, and a household picking a few a day could not wait for a peck to arrive before starting. Sweet pickles proper -- fruit in spiced, sweetened vinegar -- were a fixture of the Southern relish tray and were often served alongside cold meat and ham, where the sugar-and-vinegar sharpness did the work a chutney or a fruit sauce does now. The opening line, offering preserves as a year-round substitute for seasonal fruit, is a small window on the period's larder logic: a jar of peach preserves was among the closest things available to out-of-season fruit, and turning it back into something savoury was a thrifty second use. The truncated closing phrase, "Never throw away even," may have begun an instruction about saving leftover spiced vinegar, advice that appears in other books of the era, but the text breaks off and the continuation is not recoverable here.

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