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Cream Chocolate Icing
What is known as cream chocolate icing is done in the same manner, using half cocoa and half pure cream, and sweetening it to taste. In this case use no whites of eggs, but simply dissolve the cocoa as before described, then add the sugar, and afterwards gradually add and well stir in the cream. It is then ready for use. Chocolate icing is also used to ice jelly cakes and other small cakes, also chocolate-de-clares; it may also be used as an icing for any thing, and can be piped, ornamented, or decorated with icing sugar in the same manner as a bride's cake.
Cocoa may also be mixed with sugar icing; add little or much cocoa as desired, and either ice a cake with this chocolate icing or use it for piping or ornamenting in the same manner as icing sugar is used.
TO ICE OR FROST A WEDDING OR ANY FLAT TOP CAKE.
When the cake is baked and cold, cut off all the rough parts and brush off all crumbs; then prepare an icing *in the manner described, but in this case for first icing use ordinary "powdered sugar;" give the cake a thin covering with this icing, simply to fill up the hollows, so that the second coat of icing, made from finer sugar, may rest smoother on it. If in a hurry, and you do not care so much about the appearance, then give one coat of icing only. In that case the sugar must be the kind I have mentioned (the finest). When a first coat is used, place it in the oven or in some warm place to dry, before adding the second coat. -* Please note where the word icing or ice is used it means frosting. To add the second coat, prepare some icing in the manner described, and make it just soft enough to run smoothly, and yet not run off the cake; better to be a little too stiff than too thin. To ice, place the sugar in a lump in the center of the cake, and let it run level of its own accord; or if a little stiff, spread it out with a knife, taking care not to spread it quite to the edge of the cake (within a quarter of an inch), as it will run to the edge of itself: if it is not fully smooth, place a knife under the cake and shake it a little, that will cause all the rough parts to become smooth. Next, if you desire to ice the sides of the cake, add a little more sugar ta the icing, and beat it well in; then with your knife place it on the sides of the cake until it is fully covered; then by holding the knife perpendicular, with the edge to the icing, and the back leaning a little towards the icing, draw it all round the side of the cake; when it comes round to where you started from, suddenly give the knife a twist, and turn the back from the icing, and at the same time and by the same motion, remove the edge from contact with the icing. If you do this neatly and quickly you will hardly be able to find the place where you left off. You may not succeed either in icing the cake or putting on a smooth side the first time, but practice will perfect; and if you note wherein you failed at first, and avoid it the next time, you will soon succeed. The cake now needs only to be dried, and it is ready for ornamenting.
To ornament or decorate it, prepare some icing in the manner described, but make it stiff enough to retain its shape, or at least so that it will not run smooth like the icing on the cake. This is to be done by the addition of a little more sugar (a teaspoonful perhaps), also a little extra beating; when the icing is ready lightly mark out the design on the cake; then fold up a piece of paper in the form of a cone, and secure the joint with white of egg or mucilage, and cut off the point to form just what size hole you choose. Now fill the cone three-fourths full with icing, and fold down the end; place cone in left hand to guide it, and with the thumb of the right hand placed on the folded part of the cone, force out the sugar in lines or dots to follow out the design on the cake. Those wishing further instructions in ornamenting are respectfully referred to article on Artistic Piping (with diagrams). TO PREPARE ICING FOR BRIDE OR OTHER CAKES.
Procure a clean china bowl with a round (not square) bottom inside; break into it the whites of three eggs, add about half a pound of the finest powdered sugar obtainable (ask a confectioner for icing sugar, if that is not obtainable procure "lozenge sugar; ") now with a wooden spatula, (which is made of a piece of wood about ten inches long and one and one-half inches wide at the thick end, and gradually tapering off to fit the hand, and not more than half an inch thick at the thick end. See diagram No. 40. I recommend wood because it is really better in every respect than any metal instrument for the purpose, and once made will last a life time) beat the sugar and whites vigorously until it begins to thicken, then add as much cream of tartar as will lay on a ten-cent piece, and one (not more than two) drop of indigo blue; now add about a quarter of a pound more sugar, and continue beating; continue beating and adding sugar, a teaspoonful at a time, until the icing is as thick as you wish it, and it is ready for use. Be careful not to get any of the yolk of the eggs in, or you can not beat the icing up. Be careful that the bowl, spatula, and all the implements used are perfectly free from grease. Remember to beat well, and not attempt to get the icing thick by the addition of sugar alone, or it will run. Good icing depends upon good beating as well as sugar; three whites and one pound of sugar is about the proportion. EXPLANATION OF DESIGNS FOR BRIDE OR OTHER CAKES.
A reference to the design for bride cake top No. 1 (page 359) will show that it is a combination of the scrolls, etc., given in the diagrams for artistic piping, and is not given as a design or a work of art, but is simply arranged (as I direct in my explanation of diagrams) to show how those scrolls, etc., can be connected and arranged so as to form a design. After you have made this one, you will be surprised how easy a task it will be to do a second. Please note that this design is made up of Nos. 36, 20, 13, 18, 6, 8, and 21 of the diagrams; also note that I have given two leaves of one pattern and two of another. When you pipe cake make all four leaves of the same pattern, choosing which you prefer. I have given two simply to illustrate the diagrams, or I would have sketched them all alike. I also give a sketch for the side of the cake if you wish to pipe the side. This you will note is No. 17 in the diagrams, and the bottom is finished off with simple, plain round dots (No. 2 in diagrams), but all of one size. My sketch for bride's cake top No. 2 (page 361) is more correct as a design, and is to be done after you have practiced on No. 1 design. I will not refer you to the diagrams for this design, but ask you to pick out what numbers of the diagrams are used in making up this design, as by so doing it will fix it in your memory. These designs will answer for the top of any cake as well as for bride's cake; if you use them for bride's cake, use nothing but white icing, also white piping, and in the center where I have marked ("for vase") insert a vase, or bouquet, or spray of flowers, as you see fit. The addition of a few sugar roses and silver leaves (procurable at all confectioners) will add to the effect. It is also necessary to place the cake on a lace paper, particularly if a bride's or wedding cake; and if on a silver or plated salver, so much the better. It is not imperative that you use orange blossoms in the decoration of bride's cake, still it is usually done. It is also admissible to use (very sparingly) pink roses or other flowers, or even yellow to match with the orange blossoms or in place of them; but rather than use too much or too many, use none. If you do not wish to pipe the side of a bride's cake, place a silver band round it. You can procure the band of any respectable confectioner or caterer.
This entry is really two recipes braided together: a simple cocoa-and-cream icing, and the confectioner's royal icing used for wedding cakes, with the whole method of coating and piping a flat-topped cake. The chocolate version is the easy one; the bride's cake icing is where the technical detail lies.
- The hinge: dissolve the cocoa first"dissolve the cocoa as before described" points back to an earlier step not reprinted here, most likely working the cocoa smooth with a little hot liquid before the sugar and cream go in. Cocoa stirred in dry stays gritty and will speck fine piping.
- Proportions, since none are givenProportions, since none are given for the chocolate version -- the author does state a ratio for the egg-white icing at the end: about 1 lb of sugar to 3 whites. For the cream version you will have to work by feel: slake the cocoa, add sugar, then add cream a little at a time until it drops smoothly from the spatula. "Half cocoa and half pure cream" is ambiguous and may mean equal parts of the two rather than a strict measure.
- Icing sugar and lozenge sugarBoth correspond broadly to what is now sold as confectioners' or powdered sugar, lozenge sugar being a very finely ground grade. Modern powdered sugar may contain up to about 3 percent cornstarch, which the period sugar did not, so it may thicken a little more readily; add liquid cautiously.
- Raw whites in the bride's cake icingThe royal icing is beaten from uncooked egg whites and never heated. Meringue powder or pasteurized whites are the usual modern substitutes and give a comparable set, though pasteurized whites take longer to whip up.
- Indigo blueA drop of blue was used to make yellowish sugar read as white. Raw powdered indigo of the period is not what would be used today; the modern approved blue is a refined derivative, and a pin's worth of blue gel food colour does the same job.
- Cream of tartar measure"as much as will lay on a ten-cent piece" is a very small pinch, perhaps an eighth of a teaspoon. In a beaten-white icing its main effect is to stabilise and whiten the whites.
- "The oven or some warm place" for dryingThis means gentle warmth only, enough to set the first coat before the second goes on. The lowest oven setting with the door propped, or simply leaving it at room temperature, will do. Real oven heat melts the coat you just laid.
- The paper coneThe folded cone secured with egg white is a disposable parchment piping bag, still the standard tool for fine line work. A small round tip in a parchment cone gives more control than a coupler and full-size bag for the scrolls described.
- Keeping itUnlike the egg-white icing, which dries to a hard shell and keeps at room temperature, the cream version stays soft and is perishable. Ice the cake the day it will be eaten and refrigerate leftovers.
- "Chocolate-de-clares"Almost certainly chocolate éclairs.
The Dixie Cook Book belongs to a family of thick, subscription-sold American compendia of the 1880s, and this chapter is plainly the work of a trained confectioner rather than a housewife contributor: the wooden spatula specified by dimension, the referral to "article on Artistic Piping (with diagrams)," the advice to buy silver bands and sugar roses from "any respectable confectioner" all belong to shop practice being explained to a domestic audience. That cocoa is treated as an ordinary pantry item is itself a marker of the period. Powdered cocoa with much of the butter pressed out became widely and cheaply available to American households only in the decades after the Dutch press process of the 1820s spread, and by the 1880s it was common enough that a book could tell a reader to substitute it casually for chocolate. The insistence on pure white icing for a bride's cake, with orange blossoms as the usual garnish, reflects a convention generally traced to the Victorian English court; the author's grudging permission to use pink or yellow "very sparingly" shows the rule being relaxed but not yet abandoned.