The Dixie Cook-Book

“The best is none too good.” Southern family receipts gathered across generations and printed in Atlanta in 1883 — and, in the same volume, everything else a household was expected to know: the laundry, the sick-room, dressmaking, babies, and a year's bill of fare.

HomePreserves › Fig Preserves

Fig Preserves

Gather fruit when fully ripe, but not cracked open; place in a perforated tin bucket or wire basket, and dip for a moment into a deep kettle of hot and moderately strong lye (some prefer letting them lie an hour in lime-water and afterwards drain); make a syrup in proportion of one pound sugar to one of fruit, and when the figs are well drained, put them in syrup and boil until well cooked remove, boil syrup down until there is just enough to cover fruit put fruit back in syrup, let all boil, and seal up while hot in glass or porcelain jars. - Ex-Gov. Stearns, Florida .

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a genuine preserve recipe, but two of its core steps are ones no current guideline will support: an unmeasured lye bath and open-kettle sealing. The notes below explain where it fails rather than how to rescue it.

A Little History

Fig preserving is often said to have been common in Gulf Coast and Florida households, where dooryard fig trees produced far more fruit than could be eaten fresh in the few weeks they ripened, and an alkaline dip in lye or lime-water is a frequently recorded method for breaking the tough skin so syrup could get in. The attribution to "Ex-Gov. Stearns, Florida" points to Marcellus Stearns, who served as governor of Florida during Reconstruction in the mid-1870s; contributed recipes from public figures were a common way for community and regional cookbooks of this period to lend authority to a page. The safety warning printed above the text is a modern editorial addition and not part of the original book, which was published decades before the mechanism of botulism in home-canned goods was understood and before pressure canning reached domestic kitchens.

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