The Dixie Cook-Book

“The best is none too good.” Southern family receipts gathered across generations and printed in Atlanta in 1883 — and, in the same volume, everything else a household was expected to know: the laundry, the sick-room, dressmaking, babies, and a year's bill of fare.

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Pickled Grapes

Fill a jar with alternate layers of sugar and bunches of nice grapes just ripe and freshly gathered; fill one-third full of good cold vinegar, and cover tightly. - Mrs. C. T Carson.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a four-line contributor recipe for a shelf-stable sweet pickle, and it omits every number that would make it safe: no weight of sugar, no strength of vinegar, no processing, no storage temperature. The points below explain why it cannot be followed as printed rather than how to rescue it.

A Little History

The Dixie Cook-Book (1883) was a commercially compiled book edited by Estelle Woods Wilcox and closely related to Buckeye Cookery, in which named contributors such as Mrs. C. T. Carson supplied recipes in the shorthand of cooks writing for other cooks: proportions were assumed, judgment was assumed, and a jar was whatever jar you had. Sweet pickles recur in books of this period because sugar-and-vinegar preserving was the standard way to keep a glut of fruit through winter, and a wide range of fruit was treated this way: peaches, pears, crabapples, watermelon rind, and grapes. In the South that may well have meant scuppernong or muscadine from a yard arbor, or Concord-type bunch grapes; the recipe itself says only "just ripe and freshly gathered." The recipe's silence on quantities is not carelessness so much as a reflection of how such books worked: they recorded a method already familiar in the kitchen, leaving the reader to supply what she already knew.

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