The Dixie Cook-Book

“The best is none too good.” Southern family receipts gathered across generations and printed in Atlanta in 1883 — and, in the same volume, everything else a household was expected to know: the laundry, the sick-room, dressmaking, babies, and a year's bill of fare.

HomeDrinks › Vienna Coffee

Vienna Coffee

Filter instead of boiling the coffee, allowing one table-spoon ground coffee to each person and " one for the pot;" put a quart of cream into a custard-kettle or pail set in boiling water, and put it where it will keep boiling; beat the white of an egg to a froth, and mix well with three table-spoons cold milk. As soon as the cream is hot, remove from fire, add the mixed egg and milk, stir together briskly for a minute, and then serve.

Another method is to pour boiling water over the coffee, cover closely, boil one minute, remove to the side of the stove a few minutes to settle, and serve. Allow two heaping table-spoons coffee to a pint of water. The less time the coffee is cooked the more coffee is required, but the finer the flavor. The late Professor Blot protested against boiling the coffee at all, as in his opinion the aroma was evaporated, and only the bitter flavor left.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is really two recipes braided together: a hot frothed cream to pour into coffee, and a note on brewing method. The cream is the part that makes it "Vienna."

A Little History

Vienna coffee — Wiener Melange and its relatives — reached American cookbooks through the coffee-house culture of Habsburg Vienna, which by the nineteenth century was famous enough that "Vienna" on a coffee recipe simply meant coffee served with a great deal of hot cream or whipped cream rather than plain black. American interest sharpened after the Vienna World Exposition of 1873, though the vogue for "Vienna bread" and Vienna rolls in the same generation of household manuals is more usually traced to the Vienna Bakery at the 1876 Philadelphia Centennial. What is telling here is how much of the entry is argument rather than instruction: boiled coffee was the American default, made in an open pot on the range and often cleared with egg shell or egg white, and writers like Pierre Blot spent years insisting that filtering preserved the aroma. The compiler — The Dixie Cook Book is the source usually named, though the page itself does not settle it — hedges, giving the filter method first, the boiled method second, and Blot's protest last, which is a fair snapshot of a kitchen mid-argument.

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